Sorrento, April 14, 1909

Screen Shot 2019-04-09 at 2.10.49 PMWhere did I stop anyhow? There is so much crowding itself into a day that, unless you take notes, you can hardly remember it all.

Well, we all were pretty well disgusted with our accommodations at the Pagano Hotel. Mama and Emily had to climb innumerable steps, inside and outside of the house in order to get to their bed rom and, although quite romantic, it did not agree with us. However, we slept well, and it looked good to open the shutters upon a garden filled with orange and lemon trees.

We took a carriage for Ana Capri, and it is impossible to describe the grandeur and beauty of the scenery. The road winds up on the mountain, and every turn brings new surprises. There are some very pretty villas all the way up and on the outskirt where we all decided it would have been well to stop.

We returned part of the way to Capri and then turned down to Marina Piccola (Little Seaport) which is a little jewel. Here is a beautiful villa which just took our breath away, it is so pretty. We met many fellow tramps from the Barbarossa upon our return to Capri.

After lunch, we sat around in the hotel garden, which is the prettiest part of it. I had engaged our driver to take us to the boat and, at 3:30, we started after going through the usual ordeal of settling our bill and tip, tip, tipping. Some day I will write a “Sonate Italiano” on this subject.

At the boat we had a great time with our baggage. We took the steamer for Sorrento, where we arrived about 4:45. Another job of getting us all safely placed in the small boat, which is necessary to take you to and from the steamer.

The man who handed the baggage over the rail, into the boat asked for a tip, and I took a handful of coppers and gave them to him. He called me back and handed them back to me, and I took them with a bow and a “Gratia signor.” So I got a tip for once anyhow.

Sorrento_3While I am writing this, in the beautiful garden of this hotel, I am smoking an Italian cigarette, made by the government, ten for thirty (30) centesimi (6¢) just for the novelty of the thing.

Arrived at the foot of the hill, we were placed in a lift (elevator) and taken up some 30 meters, whatever that is, and received by the proprietor, concierge (gentlemen porter) etc., etc. with profound bows. We selected our rooms and washed up for “Table d’Hote.”

Sorrento_2After dinner, we were entertained in the concert hall by a band of Italians with song, mandolin and guitars music, and the celebrated “Tarantella” dance. The Italians were dressed in their national costume, knee breeches, jackets and long red caps and the girls in fancy dresses of gorgeous colors. The dance is very picturesque.

We all retired and were glad to get our heads on the pillows. My room is away up a sheer discend of 150 feet at least and overlooks the Mediterranean Sea. The breaking of the waves on the shore sang me to sleep and, upon awakening in the morning, I opened the door to the balcony and watched the fishermen pull in their nets.

After breakfast, we went into the garden, a perfect paradise. The proprietor handed each of the ladies a pretty bouquet of flowers to wear. The wisteria grow in abundance. The entire garden front (south side) of the hotel is covered with them from the balcony down to the ground and the garden itself is one mass of flowers.

The daisies are the size of a double aster, pansies almost as large as the palm of a child’s hand, Japonica, oranges, kidglove oranges, and palms of all kinds as large as you see them in palm houses. Schatzie and I are now sitting in an arbor and she would like to stay for weeks, but . . . I guess all of this will have to be paid for, and there is “More to come.”

We enjoyed a very nice lunch and later in the afternoon we took a stroll through the city. There are some very interesting buildings here, also a Statue of Tasso, the Italian Poet, born in 1544 in this city. The stores are filled with waves of inlaid wood of which there are many factories large and small. We also went in to the Public Garden which affords a fine view of the sea. The street are very narrow, the people very primitive in their habits.

We returned to the hotel garden to enjoy the beautiful view and to bask in the sunshine. We hope that it will continue to shine on us.

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Editor’s note: Despite Jennie’s increasingly poor vision, she managed to write a personal note to Miss Hunt. 

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