Düsseldorf and Neuss, July 28, 1909

When I awoke this morning, it was raining, and it has rained ever since. I took the electric car over to Dusseldorf, a 20 minutes ride which took me across the beautiful Rhine Bridge build in 1896–98, which spans the stream in two arches. The gate way at each end are very fine, the central pier bears a gigantic lion, the cognizance of Dusseldorf.

Düsseldorf.
Rhine Bridge.

We passed some nice monuments, and I went into the Kunst Halle which on the façade has a fine mosaic “Truth as the foundation of Art.” I saw some good modern pictures, among them E.V. Gebhardt’s “Christ”; W. Nicodemus.; P. Janssen’s “The monk and the peasants before the battle of Worringen”; Lenbach’s “Prince Bismark”; a good marble group by C. Janssen, “Women Breaking Stones”; and others.

Düsseldorf
Art Hall and Bismarck monument

But I have seen so many pictures that I concluded to spend the short time which I had at my disposal at the Gewerbe Museum (museum of Industrial Art), and I am not sorry that I did so. A better built and arranged house for this purpose than I have seen so far.

I was especially impressed by the large flat sky lights of Leaded Glass which measure about 55 x 65 feet each and which are carried, as I was told, by the regular iron structure built for the purpose. Above it, in triangle form, the divisions are in broad Tea Iron of at least 6” width and the subdivision of 2” width. One of them must weigh at least 18,000 lbs., if not more.

The glass itself is common cathedral in pale amber and milky white shades, giving an excellent light for the main floor and the galleries surrounding same. The collections include textile fabrics, lace, embroidery, binding, pottery porcelain, work in iron, and wood carving. Of the latter, there are some beautiful specimen of treasure boxes, desks, work tables, etc.

There are also a series of rooms fitted up in the Old German, Flemish, Oriental and other styles. What a pity that our manufacturers cannot have the opportunity to see these glorious old works.

Of glass, I saw some specimen fragments of Roman Work made in the year 1 to 300 after Christ and Egyptian Glass mosaic made 1300 years before Christ and say, the old fellows understood how to make mosaics better than we do nowadays. Whenever I see these nice collections, I regret that I cannot pick up something to bring home for our building. I saw some fragments of an old window which I would like to have for us to show off with.

It kept on raining and, as I knew that Else would have a fine dinner for us, I concluded to go home and hope for better weather tomorrow. While I am writing this, it is still blowing and pouring down, and it feels good to sit in Theo’s study, which is fitted up in good style with a fine collection of arms and fixtures and furniture of antlers.

He has placed a box of good cigars at my disposal, and I am “Disposing.” This will be my last from Neuss. We leave on Friday at 10 a.m. for Bremen and hope to get there by 3:20 p.m.

Gruenewald has engaged rooms for us at the Stadt Munchen, and you will hear from me from there. I am sending my mail by slow steamer or rather at the 2 cents rate so they may come a little later, but I find that I have sent out over 200 postal cards by this time and I must economize.

Ta ta, Papa

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