My dear boy—
It is so nice to be awakened by the sweet song of the orphan boys across the street. I went to Rev. Moeller after breakfast, and he showed our church to me, which is quite an imposing building.
From there, I went to see Miss Marie Paulus and her sister Elise. Miss Marie is one of the best vocal instructors in Stuttgart. I was met by her sister and 1/2 doz. dogs. It was very interesting to talk with them of olden times, and they gave me some information regarding the survivors of my Salon days. Marie remembers the Nulsens well and sends her love to them.
I returned to the hotel, and together we went to the Gewerbe Museum. The chief features of the interior are the grand staircase and the exhibition gallery, which is adorned with a painted frieze 98 feet long. There is a wonderful collection of French and English textile fabrics, with samples for 1840 to the present day, with over 300,000 samples. Besides this, a collection of Japanese textile fabrics and over 10,000 patterns of French and German carpets. Of course, we did not look at all of them.
After dinner, we walked up to the nice Neckar Street to the Museum der Bildende Kunste (Museum of Art) with its very fine collection of more than a thousand paintings of which we preferred to look at the modern ones.
Many of these are by Swabian painters, and I will only mention those which aroused my special attention, among them Makart’s “Cleopatra,” Lenbach’s “Emp. William I,” Uhde’s “Last Supper.”
From here, we went to the Stifts Kirche, a fine old Gothic building with two handsome towers and beautiful reliefs over one of the portals, “Christ Bearing the Cross,” and “Christ and the Apostles.” The church has been used for Protestant services since 1534. The stained glass made in 1848 is especially fine. In the choir are the Nativity Crucifixion, Resurrection, Pentacost and the Last Judgment, and in the organ loft, “King David.”
Of special interest are the all stone figures of Counts of Wurtemberg by the wall of the Choir. Many old and very artistic monuments adorn the side chapels, among them a painted stone monument of Count Albert von Hohenlohe who died in 1575.
There is also an old votive relief in stone representing “Christ as the Judge of the World,” and, beneath it, the “Wise and Foolish Virgins.” The pulpit is carved in stone and has fine reliefs. I was very much interested in one of the windows, a Memorial of Caplan Kapf, whom I heard preach when I was a boy and whose portrait is in the window.