Naples, April 11th, 1909

Napoli_4Either the pens or the ink are abominable, so I will have to take refuge to my pencil. I collected all our baggage, nine pieces on the steamer, and engaged two of the steamer stewarts [sic] to help me down with them.

I watched my chance and was one of the first to get off and, as we descended the gang plank, I saw a man wave a letter in his hand and call out again and again! “Mr. Jacoby, I have a letter for you!” I called to him, and he met me at the foot of the gangway when I saw that he had a band around his cap with the name of the hotel on it.

In the letter, the proprietor informed me that my letter had been received and my terms accepted, which is 12 lire or $2.40 per day. He helped us with the custom house officer, so that we had to open but one suit case, and took us to the bus.

At the hotel, we were received with bows and scrapes and had our first experience of European Hotel civilities. I haven’t found out yet who is the “Ober” and who the proprietor, but I know the concierge who speaks German and English. We walked right to Table d’hote and ordered a bottle (4¢) same price as Munchener, which seemed “High” to me.

After dinner we sat around and watched the ladies smoking cigarettes. We retired early, as we have to rise early in order to be able to attend high mass, as the churches will be crowded an hour before commencement.

We have two large rooms, fitted up in great style. Large windows reaching to the floor, lead out into a small balcony on which Wisteria grow. They are in full bloom and look very graceful. We are on the first floor, and we have a fine view of the garden, which is one mass of flowers and tropical plants. The building reminds me of the Moorish Buildings on the midway.

Grace and her aunt have another very pretty room, which has a large balcony in front. The Winter Garden is one large circle room with glass walls. The dining room is nicely arranged, and the hotel lies pretty well up on the hill and not right in the city. We all slept well after climbing into our beds and awoke at 8 o’clock on Easter Morning.

Editor’s note: “Ober” is short for “oberkellner,” meaning “head waiter.” 

April 11th Sunday (continued)

Grace and her aunt were up and ready to go long before us, and so they left us to go to the Cathedral.

We took a long walk down to the park, passing some monuments and seeing much of Italian life, such as the goats being milked right on the street, direct into the bottles, the police and soldiers in their gay uniforms, the poorer class in their bright dresses, and flowers everywhere. We had a nice walk in the park and a good view of the Bay of Naples. The sun was shining brightly and the air so balmy.

We walked home and had our worship in our room. At one o’clock, we had a lunch, and we certainly enjoyed it as we had nothing but bread and honey and a cup of chocolate for breakfast.

After lunch we took the funicular (right around the corner from our hotel), which is an inclined R.R. up the hill, where we walked around and took the street car back to town, passing many of the principal buildings, the royal palace, Garibaldi’s Statue, the Arsenal and the Wharfes. [sic]

We were thoroughly tired out when we returned home and mama lay down for a nap. We have not had a chance to go to Cooks or the P.O., so we have not received any mail as yet. Tomorrow at nine o’clock, we leave for Capri.

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