Frankfurt, August 24, 1909

Mrs. Schwarz called punctually at 10, according to agreement and took us to St. Leonhardt Church, which was begun 800 years ago. In the Salvator Chorlein, or chapel, is a wonderful vaulting of ribs of stone, detached just like they make out of wood, but in stone, and it seems wonderful to me that they could keep the stone in place.

As they had “Mass” we could not walk around, and so we went on to the old market place where they are making preparations for the Annual Messe (Street Fair). Here are two stories in the pavement, marked O.K., where formerly stood the Ochsen Kïrche for “Barbecue” of beef.

We passed through wonderful narrow streets, where the gables of the houses almost touch each other, for in the olden days, the upper stories were built projecting over each other in order to gain more room. Here is an old house built on four wooden posts, the Steinerne House, built in 1464, with round arch frieze and corner turrets, a statue of the virgin and a fine vaulted gate.

We saw the Goldene Wage (golden scale), first mentioned in1323, and rebuilt in 1450 with a rich façade. There are so many fine old houses that I cannot mention all of them—one of them has a “Roof garden” so you see we only copy from our forefathers.

And now we approached the grand old Cathedral, originally founded in 870 and reconstructed in 1239. The tower is crowned with an octagonal cupola surmounted by a spire, which makes it look like an immense imperial crown, a very appropriate form as, from the time of Friedrich Barbarossa 1152 onwards, most of the German sovereigns were chosen in Frankfurt and crowned in this old church.

From here they proceeded to the Romer, and so did we, passing the monument of Stotzer, a Frankfurt citizen who wrote in the Frankfurt dialect in a very humorous manner.

[From the text on back: The City Hall for almost 500 years, built in 1322. Bell towers were remodeled in 1612. Five colossal figures: Frankofurtia (the female embodiment of Frankfurt), the Emperor Barbarossa, Ludwig of Bavaria, Karl IV, and Maxmilian II.]

We went into the Kaisersaal where the new emperor dined with the electors and showed himself from the balcony to the people assembled on the Romerberg. The hall is covered with tunnel vaulting in wood and is embellished with full sized portrait figures of the Emperors. We had to wear felt shoes to enter this hall and the adjoining Wahlzinner where the electors met to deliberate on the choice of an emperor.

From here to our hotel where we found Hortense with mail from you. We returned to the Romerberg to look at the Justitia Fountain erected in 1543 which ran for 1&1/2 hours with red and white wine while the coronation banquet was being held in the Romer, but that was before my time. Nothing but water runs now.

To the end of the last century, no Jew was allowed to enter this market place, and they all lived in the Judengasse or Jews Street, which was closed every evening and on Sundays and holidays throughout the whole day, and no Jew might venture into any part of the town under heavy penalty. Nothing is left of this old street as all the houses have been pulled down except the old house of the Rothschild family, which flourished and became enormously wealthy in spite of this tyranny.

Charles and I called at the shop of A. Luthi, a well known art glass firm, and the present manager, Mr. Karl Witthum, who is quite an artist, took me through the entire shop and showed me many designs, cartoons, and partly finished windows as well as sample windows. He also gave me full information in regard to the manner in which they procure their work. I saw some of his windows later on in the Homburg station and church, and they are very fine.

We returned to Charlie’s home, and the ladies and I took a cab to the Deaconess Home where Rev. Henry Mann, the President, received me. The “Sisters” surprised me with a song, “Lobe den Herren den Mächtigen König der Ehren,” [Praise the Lord the Mighty King of Honor] and I had to make them a short speech.

Brother Mann took me to supper with him, and I met Hortense and her husband as well as a son of Ernest Mann, who is a Preacher in Frankfurt.

We spent a very pleasant evening.

And with this, I will close.
Good night, Dad


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