St. Moritz, September 30, 1909

When we arrived last night, we had to climb a hill to our hotel, and on the way we passed an immense white building, which we found upon inquiry to be the Grand Hotel with room for 500 guests. It is beautifully situated on the hillside above the lake.

The Grand Hotel at St. Moritz.

Saint Moritz is only a village, with 1600 inhabitants, and owes its great importance as a health resort of the first rank partly to the general climatic advantages of the Engadine, but mainly to its mineral springs, which were known as early as 1539. The season proper lasts from the middle of June to the middle of September, and the place, with its immense hotel buildings, looks empty. The Bath of Saint Moritz is in the valley on the lake and has a very pretty Kurhaus.

As the weather was favorable, we decided to go to the Morter Ratsch Glacier, and so we boarded the train to Pontresina, another frequented summer and winter resort which owes its mountaineering importance to the proximity of the Bernina Chain of Mountains, which vies in grandeur of it snow peaks and glaciers with the celebrated Mt. Rosa group.

Bernina Road and Morter Ratsch Glacier.

We walked along a well-made road past a pretty waterfall and, crossing the Bernina Bach [sic], we took a pretty foot path leading through woods and over meadows. As we are at such a great height, 6260 feet above sea level, we were able to pick many alpine flowers, and we saw many bushes of the Alpine Rose plants.

We reached the foot of the glacier after about two hours’ walk and, as we were all in good condition, we decided to climb to the Boral Hut, which lies 1810 feet higher on the west side of the Glacier.

Boral Hut.

The road ascended on the slope below the Chunetta and, although very rocky, it was not difficult. We had climbed about one-sixth of the distance when it began to rain and, as the clouds slowly covered the mountains, we concluded it wisest to return.

Bernina Road, Morteratsch Glacier and Bellavista [mountain]

But we had provided ourselves with a good lunch consisting of two loaves of bread, cheese, ham, butter and pears and, as we could not make up our minds to let it dry up, we sought the shelter of three good-sized larch trees and “Opened up,” Alfred’s Rucksack and took our lunch “Standing.”

We then descended to the foot of a glacier which, by the way, needed a washing pretty badly at the lower end, and sought refuge in the always present Restaurant. A plate of good soup warmed us up and a fire in the Kachelofen [tiled stove] together with the cozy corner of a sopha soon made us forget the weather outside until Emily suddenly jumped exclaiming “Es schneet, es schneet!”

We could hardly believe her, but sure enough, it did snow and, before we left, the mountains, which had been gray and bare, were covered in spots with snow, thus giving us an opportunity to guess how they will look when the season opens again next year.

An electric line runs from here direct to Saint Moritz, but we had to wait three hours for the next car. Time, however, passed quickly, and we reached our destination at 4:30, passing on the way the old Romanesque Chapel of San Gian near Celerina. It continued to drizzle, but we climbed the hill in St. Moritz to the leaning tower of the old parish church dating from 1573.

San Gian near Celerina.

The church has been pulled down but the cemetery is still next to the tower, and we saw many tombstones of American and English men who have died here, telling the sad story of their seeking for health, but in vain. Alfred took a few Kodak pictures of us today, one with the sheep herd, and I suppose it will be hard to count the Schafskopfe [sheep heads] in this picture without insulting somebody.

Good night, more to-morrow.


Bernina Group and Morteratsch Glacier.

St. Moritz, September 29, 1909

We arose early. Emily, Maja, and Alfred Ritter and I took a train for Winterthur, where we arrived at 9 o’clock and changed cars for Chur. We passed through St. Gallen, one of the highest (2195’) of the larger towns of Europe. At Rorschbach, we came to our old friend, the Bodensee, and we skirted along its banks. The mist was still hanging over the lake and the fields.

At St. Margre, we had to change cars, and we dug into our lunch, which was fine, and we topped it off at the R. R. Restaurant with something wet. I felt a sort of good to see our old friend, the Rhein, again, and, once more, we rode along hills covered with vineyards and orchards.

At Meldegg, we had our first glimpse of a snow clad mountain and not very far from it, we stopped at Altstatten, the ancestral home of the Ritter family. It is a prosperous little town and through a gorge on the right of it, we saw the Sentis. The atmosphere had cleared and, from now until sundown, we had a fine clear sky.

We were kept busy jumping from one side of the car to the other to see all the beautiful scenery which came into view all along the road. We also saw many old chateaus and ruins of castles. Among the former, I must mention the white chateaus of Liechtenstein which is situated on a lofty rock near Vadux, the capital of the great principality of Liechtenstein.

Above it towers the “Drei Schwestern,” three fine looking mountains. Near Sargans, the scenery became grander. In one direction, we saw the long serrated chain of the Kurfirsten, in another, the gray pyramid of the Falkins, 8420 feet high. At Mayenfield, we saw an old tower which is said to have been erected in the 4th century by the Roman Emperor Constantius. And the old fellow looks good for another century or two.

We arrived in Chur at 2:15. As we had to wait for our train for half an hour, we took a walk into town, but did not reach the old part of it.

We now took the Albula Railway, a narrow gauge road built in 1898 to 1903 at a cost of 5 million dollars, and it is only 51 1/2 miles long. It is one of the most interesting mountain railways. In addition to the great Albula tunnel, which is 3 1/2 miles long, it traverses 39 smaller tunnels (with an aggregate length of 6 1/2 miles) and numerous viaducts.

We had a fine view of the meeting of the Vorder and Hinter Rhein at Reichenan and, as we kept climbing higher and higher, we could see the pretty hamlets with their churches and the old chateaus and many ruins of castles.

Just above Thusis, a transition station from and to Davos and the Engadine, the turbid river Nolla falls into the Rhein, the valley of which seems as if terminated here by lofty mountains. A rock on the opposite side of the Rhein is crowned with the ruined castle of Hoch Realta mentioned in the 11th century. On one side of it is a dilapidated church which is said to be the oldest Christian Church in the valley.

When we had reached a height of 2420 feet at Sils (an old Roman town), we entered the “Schyn Pass,” the deep and rugged ravine of the Albula and, now, tunnels and viaducts followed each other in rapid succession until we reached at the Solis Railway Bridge, which has 11 arches and is 275 feet above the torrent.

We passed a pretty waterfall in a very picturesque setting of rocks and trees and crossed the rivers Schmittentobel and Landwasser by means of bridges respectively 100 feet above the torrents. Another tunnel and two short cuttings, and we came to Filisur station situated 140 feet above the picturesque valley of that name.

We had now reached a height of 3550 feet, and here begins the mountain section proper of the railway. A spiral tunnel takes us, ascending, up to the Berguner Stein. Again and again, as we climbed upwards, we could see below us the bed of the railroad over which we had passed, and we could see the smoke coming out of the mouth of the tunnels which we had left behind us.

Upon the mountains along which we passed, we could see the walls and fences which have been erected to prevent the snow from forming into lawines [avalanches], and often we passed under so called snowsheds.

We were wishing for genuine rubber necks for, aside of looking to the right and the left, we kept looking down and up, for near us, almost within touch as it seemed to us, we could see the grand snow clad mountains with their glaciers.

Whenever we reached another station, we were astonished to see the grand hotels made necessary by the great numbers of tourists who come to this part of the country to seek rest, health and recreation.

Between Bergun and Preda, a distance of 3 1/2 miles, the railway made an ascent of 1330 feet. This seemed to me to be the most interesting part of the line for here it first ascends in a vast double loop with a lower curved tunnel of some 1500 feet and an upper tunnel about 1/2 this length. It then crosses a river by means of a viaduct of four spans, 165 feet in height. Following the mountain slope, with the sun throwing its rays, we suddenly were in darkness again, as we had entered another spiral tunnel at least 2200’ in length.

Albula Railway. Land and Water Viaduct.

Traversing a cutting, the line recrossed the Albula and ascended in a wide loop, again crossing and recrossing the river and ascended about 260 feet by means of two spiral tunnels, one above the other and reached Preda, 5880 feet above the sea level and situated in a pretty valley all surrounded by snow mountains.

I tell you, Boy, this is a wonderful piece of engineering, and the man who worked it out must have had many a sleepless night and many a headache and here we go, “Scooting over it at a mere song.”

Albula Railway—the Old and the New Solis Bridge.

We now entered that 3 1/2 mile long Albula Tunnel and gave our eyes a rest. It took us ten minutes to pass through it and, shortly afterwards, we reached the open valley of the Engadine. A short run and here we are at St. Moritz.

I cannot now tell you what an impression it made upon me. It is a wonderful place, a regular surprise for me. I was cold, and we had to climb up to our hotel, where we were very kindly received and shown three good rooms, as we had a recommendation to the landlord.

A fine supper, this letter, and now to bed.


St. Moritz Villlage.


Remismuhle, September 28, 1909

Greetings from Remismühle.
Panoramic view.

My dear Boy:

We are all mighty glad to be home again, and we made up our minds not to get out of bed any earlier than we had to, so we arose pretty late—I won’t say how late. After breakfast I wrote, and the ladies busied themselves in the kitchen, and, before we knew it, it was time for dinner. Aunt Lenchen had an excellent dinner for us, and it tasted good.

At 3:15, we started out for a walk such as Aunt L. takes every once in a while. It took us up a mountain, and you ought to have seen Mama climb. She is almost as good as a chamois at it, and she certainly kept up fine.

We reached the top of a pretty good sized mountain from where we had a fine view of the Toss Valley with its pretty villages. We descended by way of the Gyrenbad, which has an alkaline spring and is much frequented in the summer.

We had climbed some 500 feet as Gyrenbad is 2500 feet above sea level and Remismuhle only 2000 feet. We returned at 6:15 without having rested on the road, which I consider a pretty good exhibition of endurance and walking on the part of Mama.

Of course we enjoyed our supper, and we sat for a long time around the table listening to Aunt Lenchen, who told us stories of her early life in Riga and Zürich. We made preparations for our trip to Engadine, and we retired early.

Lucerne, September 27, 1909

Lucerne. An Old House.

The quartet started out bright and early, and Emily and I walked over the Muhelm Brucke (bridge), which is built on the same order as the Kapell Brucke and has paintings of the Dance of Death, describing death coming to the men and women in different callings such as judge, painter, workmen, etc., and calling them away from their work to join him in a dance.

Dance of Death Bridge

We found our way through the narrow and crooked streets with their old, but well preserved, houses to the ancient Rathaus built in 1519. I went in to see some old stained glass including a fine series of armorial bearings of the 17th century. The coloring, as well as the details in these old glass paintings, is truly wonderful. I also saw a very pretty chased sword hilt called the Tell’s sword on account of its having incidents out of the life of Tell and chased work on the hilt. Right near this old Rathaus,  we saw another house with the genealogical tree of the house of Pfaeffli painted upon the front wall, covering it from the sidewalk to the roof.

Town Hall on the Quay.

From here, we went along the Quai, shop gazing as we went along, and up two flights of stairs to the church of St. Leodegar. They had firnmug (confirmation), and the church was filled with parents and their boys and girls, the former neatly attired in black, and the latter in white, dressed with a wreath on their head.

I had an opportunity to hear the fine organ and to admire the carved pulpit and stalls of the 16th century, also the stained glass windows and forged iron work. Mama and I promenaded in the old church yard and in the arcades enclosing it, where there are several paintings by Drescgwanden.

In order that Emily and I might have a chance to see the Glacier Garden, Tante and Mama made an arrangement with us to meet them at the station, and we went past the old Lion to the Glacier Garden.

These were discovered in 1872 by a gentleman having the cellar dug. After removing a stratum of earth, the workmen struck upon the firm, gray rock of the country, in which were sunk many deep excavations, cauldron shaped, at the bottom of which lay large, round blocks of Alpine rocks, which a professor of Geology of the Polytechnicum of this city pronounced to be glacier mills.

These mills owe their origin to the action of erosions at the foot of cascades. The round boulders, seen at the bottom of the mills, have been whirled about by water and have polished the mills by friction.

As there is no cliff nearby from which the water could fall, it is clear that the boulders have been dragged to the place by the glaciers of an epoch long passed, from the innermost parts of the Alps, and that these holes have hollowed out by the torrents of melted snow that dashed down the steep end of the formerly mighty glacier or rushed through the ice crevices down to the ground, and the now disappeared cliff was glacier ice.

We stand before a relic of time when these countries were not yet inhabited by men, a time when almost the whole of Switzerland, and, indeed, the greatest part of the northern hemisphere, were buried under immense masses of ice, with here and there an oasis inhabited by animals long ago extinct. We also saw rocks, found on the spot, abounding with fossils of seashells and others showing the petrification of a palm leaf, best presenting to us various aspects of the country in the history of our earth—the first when the ocean covered the land, second when tropical heat produced tropical forests, third when the ice covered this hemisphere.

Aside of these glacier mills, we saw a very interesting and prettily arranged exhibit of Alpine animals, all shot in Switzerland, and the panorama of the Rheinfalls as we saw it from our hotel.

Walking up some steps, we came to an Ice Grotto with a glacier mill working under the glacier. This gave us a good idea of how they originated. Through a crevice in the ice, the torrent of melted snow rushes down and whirls the huge rock, making it revolve in the rocky part, hollowing and grinding it, as it turns.

We next came to an Alpine Club Cottage giving us a true picture of these highland places of refuge. Through an opening in the wall of the room in this cottage, we saw the beautiful Alps. We seem to stand far above the glacier, which descends majestically from the land of eternal snow. It requires an attentive observation to realize that this is only a picture, an illusion, so wonderfully are all the characteristics of the world of glaciers rendered.

Passing on, we came to a wood cottage in Swiss style, so called chalet, and we entered it to see how they live up in these high mountains.

We had to rush in order to get to the station in time. Off for Zürich at 1 o’clock. Near Ebikon, we had another glimpse of the Rigi from the Kulm to the Rotstock. At Cham, we saw the extensive buildings of the Anglo Swiss condensed Milk Co. and, by 2 o’clock, the Zuricher See came interview again.

Alfred, the youngest son of Lenchen, received us at the depot. He has been serving for two weeks as a soldier, which the Swiss citizens have to do up to their 30th year. We all went shopping and took the train for Remismuhle at 6 o’clock and were received there by Maja.

The rooms have been decorated with flowers by her, and we all were glad to get home once more, well satisfied with our 13 days’ trip. At the table we found your nice letter of the 16th together with the new catalog, which I think is a beauty and does credit to the compiler.

We intend to leave for the Engadine in a few days. For this time, I must close. Soon I hope to be able to tell you more. Say, the girl at the Mercur in Interlaken sends regards. She said she remembers you. She is a nice looking, dark eyed Frenchy.

Lucerne, September 26, 1909

We awoke and, as usual, our first step led us to the window to see about the weather. The sky was not clear, but we decided to take a trip on the lake to enjoy the fresh air and the scenery as far as it was visible to us.

We started at 9:30 in the morning. Beyond the Meggenhorn, the bay of Kussnacht opens to our left and that of Stausstad to our right, forming the cross of the lake. We could see Kussnacht in the distance and, on our right, the wooded mountain, Burgenstock. From this part of the lake which is the center of the cross, the Pilatus is very striking, its weird peaks, [illegible], free from clouds, form a marked contrast to the Rigi opposite, the lower slopes of which are covered with gardens, fruit trees, and houses, and the upper with woods and pastures.

Chestnut trees of Bürgenstock [Mountain]

At 11:50, we reached Vitsnau and Aunt Lenchen ran a race to the car to secure a good seat for us. We had decided that she and Mama had best stay in Vitsnau while Emily and I ascended the Rigi.

The mountain railway, which ascends from here, is run on the rack and pinion system with a cog wheel arrangement in the center of the track. We ascended 4470 feet in about an hour and fifteen minutes. The Rigi, on this side, consists chiefly of conglomerate, a formation of pebble stones and grit, which looks as if the pebble stones had been put together with cement. We had a good view of this peculiar formation in the defiles which had been cut out for the road.

We ascended gradually over broad terraces and gentle slopes covered with pastures which support some 4000 head of cattle and planted below with fig, chestnut and almond trees. Owing to its isolation, the Rigi commands a panorama 400 miles in circumference unsurpassed for beauty in Switzerland. We passed Rigi at a height of 4720 feet, [text missing], which has a large Kurhaus with covered promenades and is situated on a sheltered plateau.

As the train gradually ascended, we had a good view of the lake, which became grander the higher we rose. At Rigi Kulm, we had reached a height of 5905 feet, and we were in the clouds. Nevertheless, we climbed up to the hotel and to the view point beyond it.

Rigi Kulm [highest peak of Mount Rigi]

Here it descends abruptly to the Lake of Zug. The mists forming into clouds completely shrouded the Kulm, but even the mists possessed a certain charm surging in the depths of the valleys and struggling against the rays of the sun.

We could not stay over night to watch the glorious sunrise, so we took the next train down and were received by our loved ones with the welcome news that they had laid in a supply of buns, cheese, butter, pears, fresh figs, and that everything was ready for a lunch, which we enjoyed very much.

We took a boat for Brunnen at 2 o’clock crossing and recrossing the lake, making a landing at pretty little villages all filled with modern hotels. We had a good opportunity to see the lake in all its beauty. At Treib, we saw a storehouse (Susthaus), in the ancient Swiss style, now used as an inn.

Brunnen and the Mythen [mountains].

On the terrace in front of a grand hotel, now almost desolated, we took our coffee and waited for the next boat to take us home. On our way home, we had another opportunity to admire the lake and the surrounding mountains, and we saw the sun breaking through the clouds giving a farewell glance to the hotel perched high up upon the Rigi.

Lucerne loomed up in the distance with its watch towers and spires. The Museum of Peace and War, a picturesque timber building in the medieval castellated style, situated near to the steamboat landing, came into full view, near to it the pretty R. R. station, the post office, and the large hotel buildings. Another day has passed, and we are glad to get to our hotel and to our beds.

Lucerne and the Alps.

[Swiss Alps with heights]

Lucerne, September 25, 1909

We arose in good time this morning and went to the station to receive Aunt Lenchen who is going to join us here and go around with us. She arrived at 10:30, and we were glad to see her again.

We lost no time and started at once across the old and very interesting Kapell Brucke, which is carried obliquely across the clear and emerald green Reuss River. It has a gable roof, and underneath are 154 painted scenes from the lives of Saint Leodegar and Saint Maritius, as well as the patron saints of Lucerne and from the history of the town. These paintings were made some 200 years ago.

Adjoining this bridge rises the old Wasserturm, which, according to tradition, was once a lighthouse (lucernea) and gave its name to the town. The river and the lake are enlivened with swans and flocks of half tame ducks and other waterfowl. We walked along the Quay, which is lined with chestnut trees and extends along the north bank of the lake in front of the large hotels and the handsome Kursaal.


Lucerne. View of the Water Tower on the Musegg.

This Quay is a great rendezvous of the visitors, and Aunt Lenchen tells us that you can see wonderful toilets [sic], when the season is at its height. The stores which we passed, or at least the show windows, are filled with the most wonderful and costly articles of ornamentation and luxury which I have seen anywhere.

Passing along from one window to another, you sometimes wonder whether you are in a museum or in front of the shop. An enormous wealth must be brought to this meeting place of the rich and idol from outside, else so many stores of that character could not possibly exist.

The view from the Quay is grand. On account of a cloud in the sky, we could see only part of it, but what we did see impressed us by its grandeur and beauty. Here, before you, in a half circle are stretched out a chain of mountains and mountain peaks. Below them, the hills with the pretty houses and chalets and, at the foot of the hills, the beautiful lake. It is a scene never to be forgotten. We passed the church of Saint Leodegar, said to have been founded in the eighth century. It is very prettily situated on a hill and has two rather slender towers. We will visit it tomorrow.

Walking along several other streets, all lined with shops, we came to the famous “Lion of Lucerne” reclining in a grotto hewn into the rock. It has been erected to the memory of the officers and soldiers of the Swiss guard, who fell in defending the Tuileries in 1792. It represents a dying lion, transfixed by a broken lance and sheltering the Bourbon lily with its paw. It is 28’ in length and hewn out of a natural sandstone rock after a model by Thorwaldsen. They say it is crumbling off in places. The expression of pain and passionate hate in the face of the lion is most wonderful and awe inspiring.

[in red] Lucerne.
Lion Monument.

We took our dinner at the Park Hotel and, as the weather, looked favorable, we boarded one of the pretty lake steamers for Kussnacht. The Lake of Lucerne, or “Vierwaldstatter See” (lake of the four forest cantons) is without any question unsurpassed in Switzerland in magnificence and variety of scenery. Its beautiful [illegible] ultimately associated with the traditions graphically depicted by my old friend and schoolmate Schiller in his “Wilhelm Tell.”

Greetings from Lake Lucerne.

The lake is nearly cruciform. From the deck of the steamer, we had a strikingly picturesque view of Lucerne with its old towers and battlements, the Rigi on the left, the Pilatus on the right and, in front, the Burgenstock.

We rounded a small promontory, Meggenhorn, upon which is a pinnacled villa, whose owner has placed upon a rock at the extreme edge and, with a background of trees and shrubbery, the figure of Christ with outstretched arms (Come unto me), which is very impressive.

Entering the bay of Kussnacht, we could see, high above, the St. Gotthard Railway. A very picturesque château, now a hotel, was, once upon a time, a frequent resort of the Emperor Rudolf when Count of Habsburg.

Kussnacht itself is a village situated at the north end of this bay of the lake, from where we had a fine distant view above us. We saw the ruins of the so-called Château of Gessler. We left the Tante Lenchen and Mama to visit a friend, Dr. Vonboos, in the village, and Emily and I walked along the road leading to and through the Hohle Gasse (Hollow Lane) mentioned by Schiller in his “Wilhelm Tell.”

Hollow Lane with Tell’s Chapel.

At the upper end of this narrow lane, which is shaded by lofty beeches, we came to Tell’s chapel, marking the spot where the tyrant Gessler is said to have been shot by Tell. It has, under a covered portico, a painting representing Gessler’s death, and, inside, another one showing Tell’s death in a rushing torrent.



We returned and took a cup of coffee in a very nice little tavern. I then called, with Lenchen, on Dr. Vonboos, where Wilhelm spent much of his time when sick. I found them a very nice family, and their home is a little paradise, with its beautiful flowers and shrubs.

We really dislike to part from this pretty spot after so short a stay, but we had to go to the boat landing where we could see Mama and Emily sitting on a bench waiting for us. Dr. and his wife accompanied us to the landing and we boarded our steamer and enjoyed our home trip.

Lucerne, September 24, 1909


Lucerne. Musegg Towers with Panoramic View of the City.

We certainly accomplished a good deal today, and it is a pity that we did not see more for our money. Early in the morning, we had a letter from Tante Lenchen in regard to her meeting us in Lucerne, and so I telegraphed to her and also to this hotel for rooms.

We then had breakfast and took the train for Biel at 9:30. The sky was still overcast, and we couldn’t see anything of the beautiful scenery surrounding Bern, nor could we see much of the country through which we passed.

The Gurten, a long green hill to the south of Bern, where we intended to go to enjoy the scenery, bid us goodbye, looking sort of sad with fog and clouds surrounding it.

We reached Biel in an hour and went right to the watchmaker who has Mama’s watch to repair. We found him at home, 31 Neuengasse. His name is A. Schneeberger, and he has put the watch in first class order, but Mama fell in love with another one which she saw there and which is made to strike by pressing a knob, which is better than the pushing arrangement, and so I bought it for her. I kept the other because I feel satisfied that someday it will come in handy.

We did not see much of Biel, which is celebrated on account of its watch factories. We bought some good fruit and cakes and lunched in the train, and, by 1:22, we were back in Bern and, as it still rained, we took another train at 2 o’clock for Lucerne.

On our route there, we passed through the Emmen tal, a valley which is watered by two rivers and is one of the most fertile in Switzerland. Carefully kept meadows, a fine breed of cattle and neat dwellings with pretty gardens indicate the prosperity of the natives. From here, we get this celebrated Emmentaler cheese.

A pity that the sky remained cloudy, and the mountains remained lost to view, but we enjoyed the nearby views. Nearly all the way from the Bern, we had been climbing up and down and winding around the mountains, which gives you a constant change of scenery, so that you are kept busy looking, whether it is fair or foul weather.

We reached Lucerne at 4:40 and went at once to the Hotel Du Park, which has been recommended to us, and we found it a neat little hotel with very nice rooms and clean beds. The floors here in Switzerland are mostly laid in wood and highly polished, and it is sort of dangerous to walk on them, but they do this to get their children used to mountain climbing, which is a slippery affair, especially on the glaciers.

We did not go out after our supper, but Emily went shop gazing, and all to bed early.

Your Dad.


Lucerne. Pier with View of Hotel Schweizerhof.

Bern, September 23, 1909

We arose at 8 o’clock this morning and took the boat at 9:30. The weather was not favorable. The sky was over-clouded and the mountains were lost to view, the Lake of Thun, however was of a beautiful greenish blue color, and we could see from one shore to the other.

The first landing, near the Beatushohle, is charmingly situated in an inlet of the lake with a pretty Château. Merlingen is another pretty place, and from here we crossed the lake, getting a good view of Spiez with a picturesque old château and church.

From here to Gunten. which is a favorite summer resort on account of the grand scene and the shady walks. At St. Aberhofen, we saw another pretty château and, passing the pretty village of Hilterfingen, our boat made a graceful turn and steamed stern foremost to Scherzlingen near which stands Schloss Schadan, a turreted building surrounded by a large Park.

Here we walked to the R. R. station and took a train for Bern, where we arrived at 1 o’clock. We went to the hotel opposite the railroad station and, after a late lunch, we went on a rubber necking excursion of one hour’s duration, after which we visited the Museum. Bern is a very interesting old town, so entirely different from any town which we have seen, that we did not get tired of going around.

Bern. Gerechtigkeitsgasse.
[One of the principal streets in the Old City of Bern.]

It is the seat of the Swiss government since 1848 and of the Central Office of the International Postal Union. The city, in a striking situation, is built on a peninsula formed by the river Aare, which flows 100 feet below. The streets in the old part of the town are flanked with arcades called “Lauben,” which form a covered way for foot passengers.

I do not think that you have so many fountains as I have seen in this town in any other of its size. They are not large, but they are old and very quaint.

I hope that we will have a clear sky tomorrow for this city is celebrated for its splendid view of the Alps and the “Alpine glow” (the rich glow seen on the snowy peaks and rocky summits of the Alps a few minutes after the setting sun has disappeared from view, while the valleys are already in twilight) is seen here to great advantage.

[view of the Alps]

We visited the Bundeshaus, or Capitol, first. It is a very handsome edifice. The center building is a fine domed structure and contains the chambers of the two legislative assemblies, the Nationalrat and the “Standerat.”

We entered from the south. On the façade is a mosaic frieze decorated with the coats of arms of the 22 Swiss cantons. On the corners are six handsome statues. A grand staircase leads up to the chambers, and there are four beautiful half circle art glass windows above the staircase. The chamber of the Nationalrat is embellished with a large fresco of the Lake Lucerne, “The cradle of the federation.”

Another pretty building is the Rathaus, erected in 1406. It is approached by a fine flight of steps and adorned with the arms of the Bernses district.

Bern. City Hall and old Catholic Church.

We crossed the river by Nydeck bridge (the central arch of which has a span of 165 feet and which is 100 feet high) to the Baerengarten (bears den). The bear is the heralded emblem of Bern, and you can find him all over the city in stone and in wood, and here he is, in the flesh, maintained according to immemorial usage by the municipality, thanks to an endowment made by some knight in 1480.

They possess a considerable fortune, but, in spite of this, they are not a bit ashamed to beg of the visitors the favor of carrots, bread or cakes which can be bought at nearby stands. They are princely beggers.

From here to the Minster, a fine late Gothic church began in 1421 and completed 170 years later. Round the roof runs a beautiful open Balustrade. The sculptures of the Portal are one of the chief ornaments of the Cathedral. They represent the Last Judgment, the Wise and Foolish Virgins and the Prophets in the interior.

I admired the fine old stained glass windows in the Choir (1496) and the curved choir stalls with characters from the Old Testament on one side and from the New Testament on the other, also very pretty small figures on the arms of the seats.

On our round-trip, we saw many of the fountains among them the Kindlifresser (Ogre), the Bagpiper, the Archer, Moses, Justice, etc.

Bern. The Children’s Fund. Fountain of the Ogre.

We managed to get to the Zeitglockenturm in time to hear and see it strike four. The curious clock on this tower proclaims the approach of each hour by the crowing of a cock while, just before the hour, the troop of bears marches in procession around a sitting figure.

Kram Alley with Zeitglocken [clock] and Zähringerbrunnen [fountain].

Crossing the Kirchenfeld Bridge, which crosses the Asre Valley in two spans of 285 feet each, we came to the Bernses Historical Museum, where we stopped for over an hour looking at some splendid tapestry once in the possession of Charles the Bold of Burgundy, chinaware, etc.

What interested us most was a suit of old rooms cleverly arranged to display early Swiss art and handicraft, a completely furnished interior of a Swiss farmhouse and the door of another one, made entirely of wood hinges, lock and all.

In the room where the gold and silver curios are displayed, I was interested to see the original manuscript of Die Wacht am Rhein by Schneckenburger, also a fine old Home Altar made at Venice in 1290 for King Andrew of Hungary.

By this time we were pretty hungry and tired so we went to the Kornhaus Keller, very pretty early decorated in the early Bernese style, and here we enjoyed Rippli and Sauerkraut and eine grosse Braune.

After that we walked the streets until bedtime.

Good night, Dad.

Bern. The Bears.

Interlaken, September 22, 2019

We took a walk this morning on the Hohenweg, the chief resort of the visitors. It is an avenue of old walnuts and planes flanked on one side by beautiful hotels, with fine gardens in front of them, and on the other side with tempting shops, among which there are a good many dealing in objects carved of wood and ivory and others in Swiss Embroidery.

The avenue commands a good view of the Jungfrau with her dazzling shroud of eternal snow; the young lady has a height of 13,670 feet. Next to her is the Mönch, 13,465, and the Eiger 13,040. Opposite the Kurhaus, we sat down to listen to a part of the morning concert, and the first piece they played for us was Sousa’s Cadets’ March.

We continued on our road and crossed the river. There over the Brienz bridge to the Harder station of the cable railway. We were pulled up 2640 feet, and we enjoyed the beautiful scenery, which gradually unfolded itself as we rose higher and higher. The trip took us 21 minutes and another 3 minutes’ walk, through pine woods, brought us to the restaurant.

From here, we had a fine view of the Bernses Alps, Interlaken and the Lake of Thun. We enjoyed our lunch with this grand scenery before us. Besides the three mountains mentioned above, we saw the top of the Grosse Schreckhorn, another mountain giant. We certainly did the right thing in leaving Switzerland for the last. All other mountains which we have seen before this are but small hills compared with these.

We descended, or, rather, we were lowered with a hitch, and I was glad to get down again, for it is a peculiar feeling to be pulled up to such a height by a wire rope attached to a car.

We took a good look at the shops and retired to our rooms well satisfied with what we have seen of Interlaken and its surroundings.

View from Harder (1325 m) on Interlaken and Alps.

Interlaken, September 21, 1909

Dear Chas:

Yours of the 9th reached us here, and we all enjoyed it ever so much while sitting in that little corner room of this hotel, eating our supper in the usual number of courses, with time enough between each course to eat a rapid transit railroad, “Hand me out.”

We like this hotel. It is a good, moderate priced house with clean beds and good grub. We did not like to leave Montreux, but we had to part, and so we arose in good time and took the wonderful Bernese Oberland Electric line to Zweisimmen, and thence the regular railroad to this place.

We started at 10:22 from the station, which is right opposite the hotel. Again, it was a bright sunshiny day with a blue sky on which some pure white clouds floated along, and, as our train of 5 electric cars gradually ascended from 1300 feet to a height of 3190 at Les Avants, we had a fine view of Montreux and the Lake of Geneva, looking almost like the Bay of Naples contracted into a smaller space. It is a sight which I will never forget.

Lake Geneva.

We were ascending upward in long snake like windings with constantly changing scenery before us. A tunnel of 8200 feet in length carried us right up through a mountain. We passed through the most beautiful pastures which I have ever seen, and, at last, I saw the genuine Swiss houses as we have learned to know them by pictures.

You could tell, by them and the general appearance of the people, that we were in a rich part of the country. At Schönried, we had reached a height of 4050 feet, and here we had a striking view of the frowning Rublihorn, the serrated Gunnflush, the snow fields of the Sanetsch beyond it, and, lastly, the huge Gelten Glacier.

At Saaven, we reached the summit of the pass in a broad Alpine Valley, clotted with chalets and hay sheds. From here, our transit became more rapid as we descended the verdant valley of the Kleine Simme, and we reached Zweissimmen at 1:20 p.m. As we did not take advantage of the Dining Car, which was attached to the train, we secured a “Hand out,” at this station, and this enabled us to enjoy the scenery, which continued to be beautiful and grand. The change from the electric to the steam car was quickly made, and a comfortable seat secured and away we went.

We descended again some 500 feet, running constantly along side the river Simme and crossing it in a gorge by a viaduct, 100 feet above the torrent. The big mountains were almost constantly in view and, at Spiez, we got the first glimpse of the Lake of Thun and the mountains on its north bank. At the same time, we had a fine view of the Bernese Alps. Skirting along the banks of the lake, we reached Interlaken (Between the Lakes), at 3 o’clock.

We had not far to go to the hotel, and we certainly enjoyed our cup of coffee, buns and honey, which they call “Coffee Complete.” Afterwards, we took a walk toward the Heimwehfluh, but being too tired to enjoy the scenery, we decided to go back to the hotel for a rest, while Emily went “Shop gazing.” One good look at the beautiful, but cold, Jungfrau and the fine gray haired Mönch, and we retired to the hotel.


Montreux, September 20, 1909

Again we had to arise early, and we did not regret it, for we had another fine day and a good view of the Matterhorn. Our descent to Visp was much brighter than our ascent.

We had the Matterhorn behind us in full view for quite a while and, after that, all the way down to Visp, the Weisshorn would loom up again and again on the horizon wit the sun shining brightly on its snow covered top.

We had no difficulty in securing a good seat in a brand new car, 3d class, and we had good company all the way to Montreux. The train carried us along the Rhone River, with large bare mountains in full view on each side of us. Now and then, an old chateau or fortress perched high up on the mountain and, below it, a village.

We could tell by the signs on the R. R. Station, and by the language of the people surrounding us, that we had come into the part of Switzerland called the French Switzerland. Mt. Sion (German Sitten), the capital of Canton Valais, which formed the Department Du Simplon in 1810 to 1815, had some kind of a festival, and the houses were all decorated with Japanese lanterns and buntings.

Near Martigny, the wide Rhone Valley is enclosed by lofty mountain chains whose lower slopes are covered in vineyards. Between this city, which was known at the Roman time, and St. Maurice, we saw a beautiful cascade, the Pissevache, which falls into the Rhone Valley from a height of 215 feet.

At St. Maurice, another very old town, we saw the abbey which is said to be the most ancient on this side of the Alps, founded at the end of the 4th century by St. Theodore and still occupied by Augustine canons. The Dents du Midi, 10,897 feet high, from the summit of which Mont Blanc and the Alps of the Valaist and Beru can be seen, now came into full view and stayed with us all the way.

[Literally]: Teeth of the South”
[Chablais Alps in the Swiss canton of Valais.]

Shortly after leaving Villeneuve, the Lake of Geneve came into view, and we rode along side of it until we reached Montreux.

At Chillon, one of the suburbs of M., we had a good view of the Castle of Chillon, which stands on an isolated rock some 60 feet from the bank with which it is connected by a bridge. It is more than a thousand years old and was, at one time, the residence of the Counts of Savoy. Byron has reference to this old castle in his poem, “The Prisoner of Chillon.”

Chillon [Castle]

We arrived at Montreux at 1 o’clock and found good quarters in the hotel De la Gare where we enjoyed a good lunch, after which we walked down the Kursaal Strasse, which is lined with stores. The ladies on the streets were dressed in a decidedly French style.

We took an incline railway to Les Planches, another suburb of M., and sat down on the shady terrace in the rear of the quaint old Parish Church of M., from where we enjoyed a fine view of the city, the lake and the mountains. It reminded us of Naples, condensed.

Les Planches.

Some 7 or ten villages lying scattered about, partly on the lake and partly on the hillside are collectively call Montreux. It is a favorite resort for the French and English tourists and, at the end of September, many came here to use the Grape Cure, while others, with delicate lungs, make their residence here in winter.

There is a fine Kursaal with a garden and a beautiful English Church. Returning from on high, we went to the lake and watched the sea gulls of which there are hundreds flying quite close to the shore. It is amusing to see how they snatch a piece of bread thrown to them in mid air, and one man amused himself and his little girl using up a large loaf of bread in feeding these pretty, graceful birds.

On the shores of Lake Geneva—the seagulls.

A good supper and to bed. Another beautiful day, long to be remembered. Our vacation will soon be over but we certainly are winding up with the best part of it here in Switzerland.

Yours, Dad.

Zermatt, September 19, 1909

The railway station and the Alps

My dear boy:

We arose this morning at 7 o’clock, and my first glance out of the window showed me a clear sky and, in the distance, the grand Matterhorn, 14,780 feet high, which was ascended for the first time in 1865, on which occasion two Englishmen and the guide, Michel Croz, lost their lives by falling 4000 feet towards the Matterhorn Glacier.

The ascent is not now considered one of unusual danger or difficulty and takes about 8 1/2 hours from the Schwarzsee Hotel. We concluded, however, not to make the attempt, but to take a walk towards the Schwarzsee Hotel.

After a good breakfast, we started. The sun was shining, and we had a fine view of the grand old fellow and the mountains surrounding Zermatt. The Dom, 14,942 feet; the Breithorn, 13,685 feet; and some glaciers, but our eyes always returned to the gigantic Matterhorn, standing out clear against a bright blue sky.

As we climbed upwards, new peaks would appear on the skyline, some of them with a solid cap of snow on them, others showing nothing but the bare rock. It was a wonderful sight, never to be forgotten.

Our road took us along the banks of the turbulent Visp and across the Zmuttbach, another lively fellow. On the bridge, we had a fine view of the Zmutt Valley with the Matterhorn towering above it. We returned in time for lunch, resting on the way and singing “O, welt wie bist du wunderschoen.” [O, world, how beautiful you are.]

A short rest after lunch, and we took another walk to the Gorner Gorges which led us through fine pine woods. The sun has been shining all day and, as we returned home, we could see life as it is on a Sunday in a Swiss village.

We took a look at the monument of the guide who lost his life in ascending the Matterhorn. We also walked to the garden of the Hotel Mont Cervin and saw the monument erected in honor of Alexander and Catherine Seiler, who first took care of the tourists coming to Zermatt. It has their bust picture cut out in relief on marble slabs, which are introduced in a high pyramid of rocks. On the side stands the figure of a guide with a rope slung over his back and an ice pick in his hand, holding out a branch of laurel.

We had enjoyed this day very much. Mama was in excellent condition for climbing and felt good all the way. We have had a good opportunity to enter into the heart of the Alpine world and to stand, so to speak, in the sanctuary of the “Spirit of the Alps.” It was an unusually bright day, so every body says for this time of the year.

To bed at 10 o’clock.

Good night.


Realp. Hotel and Pension.

Zermatt, September 18, 1909

At 5 o’clock, we were called to arise and, at 6:50, we took a train for Visp where we arrived at 7:18 and changed cars for Zermatt. The weather was pleasant, but the high mountains were covered by clouds.

We ascended alongside the rapid and turbid river Visp partly by means of the “Rack and pinion” system. The first station, Stalden, is a very pleasant looking village situated in a very fertile region on a mountain spur. On the steep hill sides are vineyards, not in regular order as on the Rhone, but in spots, where ever there is enough soil to plant a few vines.

View of the Visp.

We passed through a rock cutting, several tunnels, an imposing viaduct and several smaller viaducts in a deep gorge and came to two gorges where the road runs close to and alongside the brawling Visp, which here forms a series of falls among huge blocks of gneiss. It was a grand spectacle.

Further up, we saw a lofty waterfall dashing in several leaps in to the valley. We kept on ascending and had a good look at the Festi Glacier. Passing through a defile [narrow valley between two mountains] scarcely broad enough for both road and railway, we reached Zermatt, which is said to be one of the most frequented spots in Switzerland. It is situated in a green valley and surrounded by steep mountains of which the huge rock pyramid of the Matterhorn is the boss.

At the hotel, Mont Rose, we were received with the pleasant news that they have been advised of our coming by Mrs. Imhof, the sister of the proprietors, the Seilers, and the children of Alexander and Catherine Seiler, the founders of the tourist resort of “Zermatt.” We were shown into two cozy and comfortably fitted rooms, and all three lay down and took a nap.

We then took a walk through the tourist city with its many shops. I am sorry that the Matterhorn has not been advised of our coming, so that we might have had a chance to look at him, but better weather and a good look at the old fellow is promised for to-morrow.

Chalets in Zermatt.

Just before dinner (7 p.m.), I took a walk along the road which leads to the Gorner Gorge. I had a fine view of the mountains covered by clouds. The sun was taking a farewell shot at them, and, as I watched, the bright clouds in the east, I noticed one particularly silvery spot which proved to be the snow covered peak of a mountain.

It was a beautiful spectacle to watch the shifting of the clouds around the mountain tops and along the sides, with a perfectly clear sky above me. But the Matterhorn failed to uncover. I could see the Riffelalp Hotel at 7227 feet and also the Schwarzsee hotel at 8495 feet, but the old fellow remained behind a cloud at 8000 feet. I went home.

A good dinner, one of the best which we have had at a hotel, an hour’s writing and to bed. The stars are out.

Good night, Dad.

Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

Gletsch, Friday, September 17, 1909

We arose and took a peep out of the window. It looked fair and, at 9:30, we started on our trip to Brig. A last farewell look at the Rhone Glacier and the valley, part of which, 50 years ago, was filled by the glacier but is covered now by debris and grass.


Hotel Belvedere at Rhone Glacier.

A short way from the hotel, we crossed the Rhone, which dashes through its rocky ravine far below. Through pleasant pine woods, we drove along the bank of the noisy river, our road descending in long windings until, at a turn of the road, the long Upper Valais, a broad green valley, enclosed by a long chain of mountains, stretched out before us, and, far in the distance, like clouds on a bright blue sky, stood out the snow covered peak of the majestic Weisshorn, one of the mountains of the Wallis Alp, which is 14800 feet high.

We passed right through one of those little Swiss villages, and I am sorry to say that, with them, “Distance lends enchantment” to the view. The houses and barns built of rough timber with very small windows and manure, the Swiss Eau de Cologne, surrounding them; the streets muddy and the people poorly clad.

I must add, however, that this was an exception to the rule and that the people of this particular village must be very poor. When I saw how they gathered their hay, and how carefully they were not to leave a bit of it on the ground, I felt that, with them, it was a constant struggle for life and the wherewith to sustain it.

Small patches of land were utilized to raise a few bundles of grain and every little spot of grass was mown and made into hay. I was delighted to see a priest out in one of the field raking hay. The villages through which we passed were deserted for men, women and children were out “Making hay while the sun was shining.”

At Reckingen, another village through which we passed and which was neat and clean, I saw the first house which looked like the little Swiss houses which are sold in the stores to tourists. I also saw the prettiest little house with fancy scroll work and a pretty steeple in the center, built for the bees?

I did not get tired of looking at the hillside with its “Grune matten” (green mats). It looked like a green carpet, dotted here and there by the little cow stables, the wood darkened by age, and, here in the Rhone Valley, the mountains had pine trees above the stretch of meadows.

Shortly before reaching our dinner station, we saw, high up on a mountain, the hotel Jungfrau Eggishoon, a favorite English resort from where the ascent to the Eggishorn (9625’) can be made in a few hours. Near it is the Great Aletsch Glacier, the largest in Europe.

Lunch, as they call it, tasted good in the hotel at Fiesch, where I met a storekeeper who has been in America and who was glad to see some one from that country. After lunch, we walked up to the village church, which is situated on a hill. The sun had been shining all morning, and sometimes it felt very hot, but in the afternoon it clouded up.


Fiesch, Upper Valais.

We now kept the descending, and the horses could take it easy. We passed the canal which supplies the water for the turbines of the engines of the Simplon Tunnel, and, at Grengiole, we crossed the deep bed of the Rhone. At one stretch of the road, we could watch this turbulent river as it dashes wildly over sharp rocks, a little further on and we see the mouth of the Simplon Tunnel.

We pass through a little town which has grown up around the stables and houses of a Swiss village. The signs over the shops are in the Italian language and, upon inquiry, we learn that, while the Simplon Tunnel was being built, many Italian workmen were brought over to help and that they settled down here.

Crossing the Rhone for another time, we reached our destination, Brig. We will long remember this beautiful trip. The jingling of the bells fastened to our horses was pleasant music to our ears for two days. In days to come, we will again see the goat herd on the hill side, the women with loaded baskets on their backs, the cows being milked on the roadside. We will hear the vesper bells and the many tuned bells of the cowherds, the rushing and roaring of the water. The hymns of praise which we sang on the road will again and again remind us of the pleasant days spent on the Furka Pass. Brig looked dusty and city like after two days of mountain and meadow life.


Brig. Sebastian’s Square.

We took a walk up the street to the Stockalper Chateau built in the 17th century by a man of that name who dominated the trade over the Simplon before the days of railroads, but the cobble stones in the streets hurt our feet, and we returned to the hotel to sit on the terrace. We have been spoilt by these two days of luxury and ease.


Brig. Stockalper Chateau

Good night.


Gletsch, Furka Pass, September 16, 1909

We were aroused at 6:30 by the porter with the cheerful news “Good weather,” and upon opening the shutters we convinced ourselves of the truth of this statement. It did not take us very long to dress and eat our breakfast, and, at 8 o’clock, we drove off.

As we emerged from the village and gradually ascended, we had a good opportunity to see the lofty and almost perpendicular rocks at the foot of which dashes the Reuss and, after riding for about three miles, came to the “Devils Bridge” where the River Reuss falls into an abyss of 100 feet with such a force that it bedews the bridge with its spray.

The Reuss Fall at the Devil’s Bridge.

The scenery around here is grand, and Emily and I got out of the carriage to obtain a better view of this wonderful spectacle. Our road continued to wind upward and took us through a tunnel 210 feet long. Above and below this tunnel strong fortifications have been erected.

After emerging from this dark tunnel, we suddenly came to a peaceful green valley watered by the Reuss which contrasted strikingly with the wild region just quitted. It is surrounded by lofty and barren mountains partially covered with snow.

Shortly afterwards we reached Andermatt, the principal village in the valley and, near it, the training camp of Swiss artillery.

Tunnel at Andermatt

Hospenthal, with an ancient tower on a hill, lies between steep grassy slopes furrowed by numerous ravines and over shadowed by the zagged pinnacles of the Spitzberge, which are more than ten thousand feet high and “Look it,” too.


In Realp, a hamlet at the end of the pretty valley, we took a cup of milk which somehow tasted better than the St. Louis article and, from here, the road ascended in long windings, giving us a good opportunity to view the valley just quitted.


Near Tiefenbach, we had our first good view of a glacier, the Tiefen Glacier, which is imbedded between three high rocky peaks, the Winterstock, the Galenstock and the Gletschhorn. They say that this glacier has enormous crevasses, some of them 200 feet deep. It looked from the distance like a lot of ice blocks packed on top of each other.

We took dinner at the hotel in Tiefenbach and a rest for both man and horses. We passed a fine water fall, the discharge of a glacier, and reached Furka, the highest point of the pass 7990 feet above the sea level. The view from here was so grand and impressive that I cannot possibly describe it. Not far from here, on our way down, we obtained a magnificent view of the Bernese Alps with the imposing Finsterahorn and other high peaks.

Arrival of the post at Furka.
[In German and French]

The road descended in long zigzags and, suddenly, the fantastic ice masses of the huge Rhone Glacier came into view, another bend of the road and, presto, here is the necessary hotel with a chance for a good, nearby view of the glacier and the necessary refreshments.

Gletsch (1761 m) and the Rhone Glacier.

Of course, we stopped and, while Mama enjoyed a cup of coffee, Emily and I walked up to the wonderful formation of the glacier and, from there, we went into a grotto which has been cut right into the ice and which gave us a good idea of the vastness and the beauty of this block of ice.

There is a wonderful blue light in the grotto which reminds you of the Blue Grotto of Capri. We took a piece of the ice along, and I told our driver that I intended to take it as a souvenir to America, and he quite soberly remarked that he did not think it would last that long.

Grotto. Rhone Glacier.

We started, or rather continued, on our way down by long bends, with the glacier above us and the Gletschboden or valley of the glacier below us and reached our Hotel in Gletsch at 6 o’clock. We have descended 2240 feet from the highest point and continue to descend to-morrow.

I showed a card of introduction which Tante Lenchen has been kind enough to get for us from Mrs. Imfeld Seiler, a sister of the Seilers who run this and many other hotels. We were shown into two elegant and cozy rooms, and, a few minutes later, a bright wood fire in the grate warmed and cheered us up.

After a good supper, to bed.

Zurich, September 15, 1909

Quay bridge and the Alps

We have decided on our route through Switzerland, and so we had our photos taken to be used on what they call an abonnement [subscription] railroad ticket which is good for thirty days travel on all the government railroads and many lake steamers. We took a 3d class ticket, which cost us $12.00 each. Just think of it, you can ride all day long if you wish to do so, for thirty days in all directions for that amount. All you need to do is show the book which they give you and which has your photo on one side and your signature on the other side.

From Schaffhausen in the north to Chiasso (Italy) in the south, from Chur or St. Moritz in the east to La Chauxde Fonds or Geneva in the west, the roads and the steamers on the lake are yours to use as you please and when you please.

We started at 3:15 in the afternoon for our first point, Goeschenen, on the St. Gotthard R. R. Skirting along on the hillside, we had a beautiful view of the Zurich Lake, and the views were only interrupted when we entered a tunnel, of which there is a super abundance on this road.

At Zug, we had fine views of the Lake of Zug, the Rigi, Pilatus and the Bernese Alps. We passed under the town by a tunnel and reached Art Goldan where we had to change cars. The station is situated on the scene of the Goldan land slip, which occurred in 1806, and which buried 4 villages with 457 of their inhabitants. We would see the fragments of rock which time has covered with moss and other vegetation.

It began to rain when we came to the Lake of Lowerz, and things looked sort of damp. At Brunnen, we had a good view of the Lake of Lucerne and, after passing through another tunnel, we reached the Lake of Uri and part of the Lake of Lucerne.

After this, we had a fine view of the beautiful Reurss Valley and, as the train ascended and the valley narrowed, we could see the picturesque hill sides with the houses and cattle.

Above Curtnellen, we came to a very interesting part off the line, which in order to make the ascent more gradual, passes through three spiral tunnels and describes a wide double bend.

We also passed over many imposing bridges, one of which is 260 feet high, another one 148 feet. At 6 o’clock we reached Goeschenen picturesquely situated at the mouth of the Goeschenen Valley and our starting point of the road over the Furka Pas.


We stopped at the Grand Hotel, and I made arrangements for a wagon to take us to Brig in case the weather would permit; otherwise we intended to go on through the St. Gotthard Tunnel to Lugano.

The Dolder Grand Hotel on a Zurich mountain.

Zurich, September 14, 1909

Zurich and Lake Zurich

We arose early this morning and took a train for Zurich. It was very hard to part from our cozy quarters at Tante Lenchen’s nice home, but she told us we must start now, or we might miss some of the best parts of Switzerland. So, we packed our most necessary duds into one grip, and she added a fur cap for Mama, a blanket, a pillow and a shawl, which we stowed away in one of those convenient German “Rucksacks” (carryalls), and away we steamed on that cozy little road which runs through the Tosstal.

At Zurich, we went shopping, of course. It is a fine city and one of the most important ones in Switzerland, has 180,000 inhabitants and lies on the Zurich Lake. As silk is manufactured here, we had an opportunity to see a fine display of silk goods. We walked from the depot, down the Bahnhof Strasse, which is nearly a mile long and leads to the lake and is the principal street of the retail trade.

Fountain monument on Bahnhof Street.

After dinner, we selected a hotel, the Pelikan, which is a very nice, clean and reasonable place. We then called on Mrs. Beutefuhrer, the sister of Mr. Schmitz of St. Louis and one of Lenchen’s friends. She lives right near to the house in which Tante Lenchen lived for so many years, and we looked at this place, too.

In the evening, we went for our supper to the Tonhalle, where we listened to a fine concert. This building was erected in 1895 and has an immense dome which Tante Lenchen’s husband, Prof. W. Ritter, had to examine and pass on. He was president and professor of the renowned Polytechnicum, which we are going to visit upon our return.

Alps and quay with Music Hall and Red Castle.

Polytechnic Institute

Neuhausen, September 13, 1909

I spent a good part of the morning in writing. After dinner, we walked to Turbental and returned in the rain, but we enjoyed our supper all the more and sat for a long time chatting and talking of the good old time.

Greetings from Turbenthal.

We are enjoying our stay with Tante Lenchen very much, and the old family history is gradually brought to light again as we remember and talk about bygone days.

But now I must close. This letter ought to have been written long ago and sent to you, but as the wonderful sights crowded upon me, I thought best to write the impression fresh upon my memory and wait with this letter for a rainy day.

Yours, Dad

Greetings from Turbenthal.

Neuhausen, September 11, 1909

Tante Lenchen and I took a walk this afternoon up a hill and into the woods, where, in an open spot, a service was held by the Methodist preacher. This is done a good deal in this country when the weather is favorable. The Gesangverein sang very fine. The Swiss are taught singing in school and, in consequence, they generally have very good church choirs.


Remismühle [in Hermann’s hand]

After service, we took a walk through the woods, and over meadows, passing through a very pretty little village where the inhabitants sat in front of their homes, enjoying the Sunday rest. These homes are all embellished by flowers, fruit trees, or vines are trained along the wall of the house on trellises, which gives a very pretty appearance to the house and, at the same time, it gives them fine fruit. Mama, Maja, and Emily met us at the bridge near the home of Aunt Lenchen.

Neuhausen, September 10, 1909

After a night of rest, we were met at the breakfast table with such a warm smile that we felt “We are at home here,” and, for the present, there will be an interruption of our hotel life.

Turbenthal landscape.

Afterwards, we walked to Turbental. Here, near the pretty white church, is the cemetery in which are the last remains of Uncle Wilhelm. A very pretty stone marks the spot where he lies and, according to the custom of this country, his grave is in a row with strangers aside and all around him. They have no family lots in these cemeteries, and it makes a very pretty picture to see all the different iron crosses and stone slabs monuments around the church.


Rheinfall & Neuhausen, September 9, 1909

We arose early this morning and took our breakfast in one of the little cozy rooms of the hotel Schweiserhof. Afterwards, we walked down through pretty gardens and pine woods to the foot of the falls where Mama and I sat down to listen to the melody of the rushing waters while Emily walked over to the bridge above the falls.

Rushing and roaring like a true son of the mountains, the Rhein dashes its great volume of water over the hard chalky rocks which oppose its passage between the shore on which Neuhausen is situated and the opposite shore on which, perched high upon a rock, arises the mediaeval castle of Laufen.


The roar of the huge masses of water, the variety of foam distinguishing the cataracts, the overhanging color on the limpid waters, together with the luxuriant verdure of the shores, all contribute to delight us.

We watched the tourists as they were rowed to a certain spot in the center of the falls where, upon the highest rock, a small pavilion has been erected. To this, they ascended by a path protected by a railing to view the falls from above.

I am told that the river takes three leaps over the irregular rocky ledge which, next to the left bank, is 60’ high, and, if the rapids and cataracts a few hundred paces farther up are included, the total height of the falls is 100 feet.


On our way back to the hotel, I pulled some ivy from the ground with its roots, and I am trying to bring it home with me.

At 3 o’clock, the Bus called for us and took us down to the station. In half an hour, we reached Winterthur, where we were welcomed by Tante Lenchen and her youngest son, Alfred, who has passed his examination as Candidatus Inegenieur and is home on a vacation.


Half an hour more, on another Railroad, and we reached Remismühle. At the depot we were met and welcomed by Maja, a nice quiet young lady, and we all went to the house where Aunt Lenchen had a surprise for us in store .

She has rented rooms on the 2d floor and set up housekeeping again after some years of wandering about from one place to another. In the hall, over the door, the words “Welcome” greeted us, surrounded by a wreath of green. Flowers in vases were in every room and, out on the balcony, flowers in pots, among them some nice carnations.

From this balcony we have a fine view of the meadows and wooded hills. A nice garden surrounds the house, and a miniature water fall gives coloring to the landscape.

It is a nice restful spot, and I trust that it will give her the much needed rest and recreation. She is tied to this spot by many recollections. Uncle Wilhelm spent the last months of his life here and passed away to a better life and lies buried in the cemetery at Turbental, a village connected with this one.

We went over to call on sister “Elise” who called the Asylum into being. It consists of a string of many pretty houses, each one surrounded by a pretty garden and, as much as I can learn about it in this short time, the sick come here to find rest and cure by prayer and faith in the Almighty physician.

We also met Brother Weckerly, the financial head of the institution, and both made a very good impression on me.

It is certainly wonderful how the institution has prospered and how the necessary funds have come to them, as they needed them, and they have certainly done a good deal of good and given new hope of life to many a despondent one.


Castle Kyburg. [Winterthur]

Neuhausen near Schaffhausen, Switzerland, September 8, 1909

We arose early this morning at 6:30 as we had to take a boat for Constance at 8:35. After a very pleasant ride on the lake (over the same route which we made the day before yesterday as far as Mainau), we reached Constance and walked past the Rathaus to the old Munster (Cathedral) founded in 1052 and rebuilt in 1435 and 1680.

Lake Constance

The beautiful Gothic tower was erected in 1850. The doors of the principal portal has bas reliefs representing scenes from the life of Christ carved in oak. They are 450 years old.

Constance at Bodensee.
The Münster

Near the entrance is a large stone slab, a white spot on which always remains dry even when the remaining portion is wet. The Bohemian reformer Johann Huss is said to have stood on this spot when the council of the 6 July 1415 sentenced him to be burnt at the stake.

[from back: The Münster, interior]

On account of a service, we could not walk around in the church, and we returned to the Rathaus, which was rebuilt in 1593 and decorated some 45 years ago on the exterior with frescoes illustrative of the history of Constance.

In the lobby of the second floor, we looked at five frescoes also relating to the town’s history.

We sat down in the inner court which is filled with beautiful flowers and shrubs while the ivy, hundreds of years old covers the walls of the buildings surrounding it.

Here two little inquisitive Elsters (a German blackbird, size of a dove) hopped on to Emily’s foot and picked at the shoe lace and dress. It is really wonderful to note such little incidents, showing how well trained the children are in this country. None of them would ever think of chasing or worrying the birds, or of picking a flower in a public place.

We walked to the Schautztor, an old city gate and near it we saw the house in which Huss was arrested. It has a memorial table with a bust picture of the martyr.

Passing through the gate and walking along a promenade called the Obere Laube, we came to the house in which Jerome of Prague, another Bohemian reformer, was imprisoned in 1415 to 1416. Both houses are still inhabited.

We returned by way of Paradise Street to the Deutsche Haus where we enjoyed an excellent German dinner. Here I bought a vase with flowers, among them Golden Rod for Mama.

Hotel Restaurant Deutsches Haus. Constance.
[Editor’s note: unable to translate the rest.]

At 2:15, we took a boat for a trip down the Rhine to Schaffhausen. It was a small boat and, owing to the beautiful weather, it was crowded with picnickers, but we enjoyed the ride nevertheless.

We had a last look at the Tirolese and the Swiss Mountains and the picturesque Constance and past the lake promenades and the garden and terraces of the Island Hotel. We steamed under the arches of the Rhinebridge.

Our first landing with its good name “Gootlieben” (to love God) gave us a taste of the beautiful scenery in store for us along this river route. Out of a pretty, green foliage arise two old dark towers, the remains of a castle built in 1250. Here, Huss was kept prisoner for a short time.

Further down, the river widens into a regular lake. Our next landing is Ermatingen with its old fishermen’s huts. Next comes Mannenbach, a veritable idyl, surrounded by water and situated in the midst of forests with hills crowned by pretty chateaus of which I counted not less than four.

We now crossed over to the island of Reishenan, formerly the seat of a celebrated Benedictine abbey founded in 724. There are three separate parishes on this island, and each one can boast of a church more than thousand years old. Of course, I wanted to “Land & Look,” but “Tempus fugit,” and we had to pass on.

Berlingen, our next landing, is the end of the lake like river from here, and the shores are closer together. We now zig-zagged between the Baden and the Swiss shores, touching Gaienhofen with its many towered chateaus, Steckborn with a picturesque old castle situated right near the river, now—a poor house. They are a practical people after all, these Germans.

Glarisegg with a pretty chateau, Wangen, Mameru, Oberstaad and Stein am Rhein, one of the prettiest villages on the route. Here, the houses seem to have undergone little change, if any, since they were built hundreds of years ago. Many of them are decorated with frescoe paintings on the outside walls.

Our smoke stack was lowered, and we shot through the arches of the old bridge and landed right close to one of these fine old houses. I felt like jumping off in order that I might rubber neck along the streets. But they do not stop very long at any of these landings, and “Einsteigen,” “Wabfahren,” and off we are.

Now for 1/2 hour we saw nothing, but water, woods and sky, occasionally a swarm of wild ducks. Perfect peace and quiet surrounded us, interrupted only by the rhythmical puffing of our engine.

All at once, as the river makes a turn, a high tower surrounded by a mass of red tiled roofs appears before us, and, a few moments later, we make landing at the pier of Schasshausen, the “Gate into Switzerland.”

A bus takes us to Neuhausen, two and a half miles distant, where we have engaged rooms in the Hotel Schweizerhof. Our room has a veranda looking out upon the Rhine Falls and we hasten to take a look at them.

A thundering noise greets us upon opening the doors leading out to the veranda, and we have it before us, a fairy like picture which one can never forget.

Rheinfall with Grand Hotel Schweizerhof.

In the distance, the mountains, a pretty bridge with many arches, on the right shore upon a wooded eminence, a pretty castle, two large rocks, and the water falling with great noise and great force into the bed below.

It is impossible for me to describe this sublime sight of Nature. Goethe writes to this fellow poet and friend Schiller in 1797: “The phenomenon of Nature will be often enough described and painted, it will awaken the astonishment of every traveler, many will essay to give voice to their emotions, but none will succeed in catching the impression of the scene, still less in painting, it in all its powers.“

We stand still and say with the Psalmists: “Oh Lord! how wonderful are thy works!”

Mama could not tire of listening to the grand voice of the Falls and sat out on the veranda as often as possible. After dinner, we listened to the fine program of modern masters in the smoking room of the hotel.

More about this in my next.

Your Dad.


Constance on Lake Constance. The Town Hall Courtyard.


Überlingen, September 7, 1909

We were delighted to receive a letter from you this morning, and it seems that our enjoyment of the day is always greater after we have had news from you. I wrote a good bit this morning and, afterwards, we took a walk around town.

We went to the old Rathaus. (Don’t you get tired of reading about the old Rathaus?) Well, we do not seem to get tired of looking at them as they are always new to us, and every one is different from the other. This one was built in 1494 and has a hall in the early German style with carved woodwork. There are 50 statuettes on the walls, each about a foot high, which represent the various elements of the German Empire, artists, noblemen, clergy, etc.

Town hall at Überlingen. Gothic wood carving from the 15th century.

The door with a wood carving of the Judgment of Solomon is modern but carried out in harmony with the old work, and the stained glass, which has been put in lately, is very fine. In the reception hall is some fine old furniture.

From here we went to see the Munster, a fine old church which is being renovated. It has a carved altar with many figures and a fine ciborium and pulpit of limestone, also an old picture of Mary holding the body of Christ in her lap (Pieta).

Münster Church at Überlingen, the north side.
Franciscan Church at Überlingen, the south side.

Outside is the Oelberg or Christ in the Gethsemane in stone with a rich carved covering and railing. On a little mound stands a large crucifix and, on each side, an immense Linden tree. We measured one of them and found the circumference of the trunk to be 13 feet. Right near to it is the old Kanslei with a fine doorway made in 1599.

We now descended into the old city moat (Stadtgarben) which has been laid out as a park, and we had an opportunity to admire the immense walls and the fine old buildings on each side. Of course, we had a good appetite for our dinner, which we enjoyed very much.

On the strength of it, we took a walk along the lake to Goldbach, where we hunted for the janitor of an old church which contains the oldest monumental paintings in Germany. They were discovered under the plastering, and this has been carefully removed so that an idea can be formed of the paintings, which were made in the year 850. A good artist has made copies of them on wooden panels which have been put on hinges and hung on the walls over the paintings. They can be turned back to show the old paintings.

Old Church wall paintings of the Reichenau school, 9th to 10th century. [The Sylvester Chapel in Goldbach is the oldest church building in the Lake Constance region.]

While Mama took a rest in the garden of a small tavern near the church, we took a walk to the Heidenhölen. These are cave dwellings in the soft rock and while some pronounce them prehistoric, others say they served as a refuge for the early Christians similar to the catacombs in Rome.

Heath caves.

At the tavern, we enjoyed a glass of home grown wine which you order by the 1/2 Liter at a cost of 17 1/2 cts. or about 2¢ a glass.

Überlingen, September 6, 1909

A beautiful clear day, we arose at 6:30 and took a steamer at 8:35. I bought a 300 kilometer ticket as we intended to spend as much time as possible on the lake.

We crossed the lake to Dingelsdorf and recrossed to the Unteruhldingen, then we crossed again to the isle of Mainau, formerly the seat of lodge of the Teutonic Order, as a cross on the side of the chateau indicates. This island is about a mile and a half in circumference and rises in terraces from the lake.

We sat on deck and admired every thing. It was a perfect day, the sun shining, not too warm and not too cold, and we thought of the folks at home sweltering in the heat of the day, and we wished that all of you could be with us to enjoy this beautiful peaceful and restful ride on the fine lake.

Recrossing, we reached Meersburg and went ashore to lunch at the old hotel See-of. This little town has many old houses and lies picturesquely on a steep slope covered with vineyards.

Meersburg at Lake Constance:
[clockwise from lower left] old castle at the side of the lake; view from the port; street view of the lower town

The old chateau, on a promontory with the ancient Dagobert Tower, is said to have once been a seat of the Hohenstanfen. the churchyard contains the tomb of Mesmer, the discoverer of mesmerism, who died in 1815.

We took a stroll through the streets of this old town, and I felt as if I would like to spend a few weeks here and make excursions from here.

Another and much larger steamer coming from Constance took us past the villages of Hognan and Immenstaad to Friedrichshafen, which has become celebrated as the home of Count of Zeppelin and the place from where he makes the ascends in his airships. We could see the immense hall erected on a float, which is towed out into the lake and from which the airship emerges when it takes flights, thus affording a large space for its gradual rising into the air.

Ascent of the airship of Graf Zeppelin.
The airship rises above the new floating balloon shed, and heads southwest on the Obersee toward Rorschach.

While Überlingen is in Baden, Friedrichshafen is in Wurtemberg, and it has always been a favorite summer resort of the King of W., who also took great interest in Count Z.’s experiments.

We next touched Lindau where we intended to return tonight on our way home, and we reached Bregenz in time for dinner, which we took in the open air in the Oesterreichischer Hof.

View of Bregenz.

This old town was known at the time of the Romans by the name of Brigantium. It now belongs to Austria and a week ago the Emperor of Austria was here to celebrate the 100th anniversary of something, and we could see traces of the decoration and arches erected for his reception.

We took a walk uptown, had a look at the fine old Martins Church and took a seat in the Harbor promenade from where we had a fine view of the Swiss mountains.

We took a boat again for Lindau, and, as we had an hour to spare before our train would leave, we walked around this pretty town which is called the German Venice. It lies on an island and is connected with the mainland by the railway embankment and a wooden bridge. At the end of a pier is a large lion in marble, 25 feet high, and, on the opposite pier, a light house 108 feet high. Between these two, our boat had entered the harbor.


We were much interested in the old fashioned way in which many of the houses are built, the second story being carried across the sidewalk to the edge of the street, thus forming a covered promenade or rather arcade or in German, a Laube (arbor) which sounds much cozier, and here they sit after their day’s work and enjoy the well earned rest and see the passers by. They give a name to some of these, as, for instance, one of them over a baker’s shop is called Brodlaube, bread arbor.

We came across the fine old Rathaus painted in front and behind and surmounted by a statue of Justice erected in 1422 and changed in 1578. It is a fine example of German Renaissance, and I really regretted that we did not have time to see the interior. We also came across the old Diebsturm, a well preserved prison dating from the 13th century, the surrounding wall over grown with ivy.

Constance City Hall

It was very hard to part from this quaint old town without seeing more of it, but we had to catch our train and, after a short ride, we reached Überlingen and thus ended one of the most enjoyable days which we have spent in this country.


Überlingen, September 5, 1909

I arose at 8 o’clock and took my early morning walk in the garden picking pears from the trees. It was raining, and so we stayed at home, and I attended to some correspondence.

In the afternoon, the son of my old teacher, Prof. Bettex, called for me and, together, we walked to his home, which is situated on a hill outside of Überlingen, called St. Leonhardt. The house is right next to an old church, and, from the veranda, you have a fine view of the lake.


St. Leonhardt, Überlingen.

Mr. Bettex received me with great joy, and together we remembered the old Salon days and the many who have passed away before us. Of course, I had to take coffee with them. He is married for the second time and has quite a number of children.

I returned at 6:30, and we passed a quiet evening in our rooms.

Editor’s note: Professor F. Bettex was the author of “Modern Science and Christianity.”


Überlingen, September 4, 1909

[Sites related to Tübingen poet Ludwig Uhland, 1787–1862]
Birthplace, residence, monument, street, chapel, and the first stanza of his poem, “The Chapel.”

We left good old Tübingen at 10 o’clock in the morning. I selected a slow train as I wished to enjoy the beautiful country as much as possible. The railroad diverged to the left and describing a wide curve, which afforded us a fine view of Tübingen and its environs. We entered the Steinlach Valley with its thriving villages.

Crossing the river, we approached the picturesque hills of the Swabian Alb, the Rossberg, the broad backed Farrenberg, and the precipitous Dreifurstenstein, all of them old acquaintances of mine.

Stetten, situated in a fertile valley near to the “Hohenzollern” is the ancestral burial place of the Zollern family, the ancestors of the Kings of Prussia. The castle itself is seen to good advantage from the train and remains in sight for quite a while. It is grandly situated on an isolated wooded eminence of the Alb and was erected in 1850 by Frederick Wilhelm IV of Prussia as a royal chateau on the site of the old castle, erected in 1454, of which little remained except the chapel.

Our train kept climbing up until, after passing through a cutting in the rock, we reached beyond Lauttingen, its highest point 2420 feet, the watershed between the Rhine and the Danube.

We then descended gradually and, winding our way through a pretty valley, we reached Storingen where I noticed a little church built right near the track and, in passing, I could read, on the side of the wall, the words in German: “Man passes through life by fast express.” A “Memento mori” for all passengers.

Shortly afterwards, we passed through two tunnels, and our dinner station, Sigmaringen, came in sight. This is a handsome little town situated on the Danube, which we crossed, and it is the residence of Prince Hohenzollern who lives in the Schloss situated on a rock rising abruptly from the Danube.

After dinner, we enjoyed the spectacle of the Prince’s sister who returned from a visit to her home. The prince was there to receive her and several fine carriages with lackeys. They laid a carpet from the track to the carriage, and her car stopped just in front of it, so that she could walk along the carpet to her carriage. It was fun to watch the deep bows and scrapings of the servants.

From Sigmaringen, we passed through smiling green valleys and wooded ravines on the Stahringen where we had to change cars, and, at 4:30, we reached Überlingen, which is the name applied to the northwestern part of the Bodensee or “Lake of Constance.”

This lake is about 40 miles long and 7 1/2 miles in width. Its principal feeder is the Rhine, and the vast Sheet of water with its well peopled banks, its high wooded hills on the south side above which rise the distant Appenzell chain of the Alps with the snow clad Sentis and the snow peaks of the Voralberg Alps, presented a scene of great beauty.

Along the lake we rode until we reached the station of Überlingen from where a bus took us to the “Städtisches Bad Hotel.” Here we learned that Parliament have taken place this day instead of Monday, and we felt somewhat disappointed as we hoped to see the airship ascensions on Monday.

Badhotel Überlingen

We dressed and went out into the beautiful garden which surrounds the hotel and out into the terrace which is right on the lake. Here we sat and enjoyed the grand scenery and, suddenly at 6:30, the cry arose: “Zeppelin, Zeppelin, here he comes,” and across the lake, over a wooded eminence, the peaked nose of the white sausage shaped airship appeared and, gradually, the full body of the ship with its two gondolas came in sight and crossed the lake towards the island of Mainau. It was a beautiful sight and a memorable never to be forgotten day.

The representatives of the German Empire had assembled to view the genial invention of Count Zeppelin and, from their midst, 88 persons had been selected by lot to make the ascend.

Six times, the airship ascended on this day, and all the landings and ascensions were made according to program and without a single accident. Once, the exchange of passengers was made on the lake. The passengers descended a ladder made of aluminum and others took their places. I am glad that we had an opportunity to be present on this day and to see the wonderful Zeppelin III.

Überlingen is quite an old town, and considerable remains of its old fortifications have been preserved, as well as numerous mediaeval buildings. The garden of our hotel is on top of one of the old walls and, as the hotel was crowded, I had to sleep in one of the old towers, but my room was fitted up quite modern. The walls are four feet thick and look old enough. I had a fine view of the lake from my window and fell asleep to the tune of the waves dashing against the walls of the old tower.

Pavillion and swimming garden Ueberlingen.
[Hermann has added a pointing hand with the note “Where papa slept one night.”]


Überlingen. Pavillion at Badhotel.

Tübingen, September 3, 1909

I am writing this in Remismuhle in Tante Lenchen’s new home in a beautiful quiet spot, a regular “Home,” after a long time of wandering.

This is a fine old university town with some 17000 inhabitants picturesquely situated on a ridge on the river Neckar. The university is quite old for it was founded in 1477 and enjoys a high reputation on account of the theological and medical faculties. Philip Melanchton, the co-laborer of Luther, was a lecturer here in 1512 to 18 before he was summoned to Wittenberg.

From our window, we have a fine view of the old Schloss “Hohen Tübingen” situated on a hill commanding the town and which was erected in 1535. We took a walk along the Neckar to the house of Professor Christ of Paulus who was my teacher in the Salon 44 years ago and whose wife was my school mate.

Aileen Bridge and Castle

Unfortunately, they are off on their vacation, but I phoned to Dr. Immanuel Paulus who is pastor of the church in Kilchberg near Tübingen who is another of the Salon teachers, and he told me that he would come in to see me at 3 o’clock.

We went to look at the old Stifts Kirche of St. George, which was built in 1483 to 1529. For the first time, I saw circle windows, which, in place of the usual rose effect scroll work, have figures carved in stone such as St. George, Mary, etc., with stained glass surrounding them. I also saw some very fine and well preserved old stained glass windows.

Tübingen. [St. George’s] Collegiate Church.

On twelve sarcophagi are the recumbent stone figures of Wurtemberg princes, including the much beloved Count Eberhard in Bart who died in 1496. The Choir stalls in carved wood below the organ are from the 16th century and a wonderful work of Art.

We took a walk through the promenade, along a pretty lake on which we saw a black swan and back to our fine old hotel where we enjoyed an excellent dinner.

Tübingen. Plant Lake.

Dr. Paulus showed up punctually at 2:30, and we had a cup of coffee in our room with a good chat of old times.

He was a student here 50 years ago and kindly offered to take us around. So we walked along the old Aula and through narrow streets up to the Schloss. Passing through a richly decorated outer portal erected in 1606 and an inner portal erected in 1538, we entered the old court in which there is a well which is fed from a mountain spring.

The 50-meter-deep wells in the Tübingen castle cellar.

Emily and I descended into the deep cellars where we were shown the dungeons and another well which was dug down to the level of the Neckar in order that, when the enemy cut off the supply of the mountain spring well, the occupants of the castle would have water.

We were also shown an immense cask which holds 18700 gallons, but it is empty. The walls seem to be from 4 to 6 feet wide, and I was told that it took 6 years to build the castle.

The big barrel in the castle cellar in Tübingen.

Through winding passages and across the old drawbridge up a hill, we climbed to the Schanzle, a view point back of the Schloss, and, for an hour, we sat and enjoyed the beautiful view of the Neckar Valley and the distant mountains.

Returning we peeped into the windows of the well preserved buildings forming the Schloss, which contain the University Library. Upon entering the hotel, Dr. Paulus discovered that it was too late for his train, so he said he would walk home as it was only about an hour’s walk, which I consider a pretty good bit for a man of 70 years. But that’s nothing for a German lover of nature.

Along the Neckar.

Stuttgart, September 2, 1909


Stuttgart. The Old Castle.

We arose in good time and started for Reutlingen at 11:30. It was a beautiful day, and I selected a slow train in order that we might enjoy the scenery. Next Monday, the Emperor is coming to Stuttgart for a grand review of the troops, called the Kaiser Parade, and so we met many soldiers on our way.

We passed through Canstatt, the pretty suburb of Stuttgart. Looking back, we obtained a fine view of the Villa in Berg, the Rosenstein, a royal chateau and the Wilhelma, a pretty Schloss in the Moorish style.

The train ascended on the bank of the Neckar, and we passed through one of the most beautiful and fertile districts in Swabia. Up on the Rotenberg, we could see the pretty Greek Chapel, which King William I of Wurtemberg erected on the site of the castle of Wurtemberg, the old ancestral castle of the princes of this dynasty.


Stuttgart. Courtyard of the Old Castle.

Esslingen, prettily situated on the Neckar, still partly surrounded by walls with its fine old churches is one of the places which I visited when a boy, and now we were kept busy looking right and left.

Here, on a square church steeple, we saw a large stork’s nest. In Plodingen, we saw a fortified church, i.e., a church surrounded by walls, and the pretty little villages with their quaint old houses and barns with immense stores of manure right next to the house, for, in this country, the size of the manure pile indicates the wealth of the farmer.

Everybody seemed to be out “Making hay while the sun was shining,” and now we crossed the Neckar by an ancient bridge, probably built by the Romans and restored in 1603. Just think of it—crossing a bridge of that age with a railroad train.

My heart was filled with gratitude to the good Lord who permitted me to see all this again.


Reutlingen with Honau Valley

We arrived in Reutlingen at 1:40 and enjoyed our dinner at the Kronprins Hotel. We then walked to the large cotton mills of the Gminder family who are relatives of Louis Baur. I introduced myself to M. Theodor Gminder who seemed delighted to meet one who could give him news of Uncle Louis in America, and he called in Mr. Gayler, the son of Louis’s older sister, Mrs. Auguste Gaylor. He told me that he could not possibly show me the town, but that another relative, a Mr. Robert Kocher, would take us around.


Gminder Village.

I did not wish to accept, but he insisted on it and introduced Mr. Kocher who took us out and showed us a fine old Garten and the Tübinger Tor, both well preserved relics of the ancient fortifications.


Reutlingen. Tübinger Gate. [Editor’s note: the meaning of “partie” in this context is unclear.]

We went to see the Church of St. Mary, a noble Gothic edifice of the 12th century. It was burnt in 1726 and repaired in 1844 and thoroughly restored in 1892 to 1901. The beautiful tower is 240 ft. high and has the prettiest ornamentations in stone which I have seen for some time.

In the interior, we saw a fine octagonal stone Font., made in 1499, richly sculptured with reliefs in the niches, representing the Baptism of Christ and the seven Sacraments. The holy Sepulchre in the Choir, which is some 450 years old, is also very interesting. The handsome modern altar is made of a rare stone [text missing?].


Reutlingen. Church of St. Mary. [Editor’s note: the meaning of “chorseite” in this context is unclear.]

I was also very much interested in the pews, which have a contrivance for overflow meetings. Out of the pew end, a seat can be drawn, which, at the close of the meeting, can easily be pushed back, which is much preferable to the placing of chairs in the aisle and which ought to be taken up by our church furniture makers.

Along the walls are similar arrangements. There is a folding desk appliance in one of the pews near the pulpit for the stenographer, and, all around it, is the most practical seating arrangement, which I have every seen. You can note at once that a business man had his hand in it and, upon inquiry, I learned that the Herr Kommersienrath Gminder was the leading spirit in the renovating of the church in 1893.

The old sacristan took great interest in showing us around and explaining all the parts which are of interest. He also pointed out a window which has been donated by a former citizen of Reutlingen who lived and died in America.

It is a fine triple window with many figures, illustrating the text. We have no resting place here, etc., with the open gates in the Gothic part, and, in the three panels below, a family, the father reading from the Bible. He told me that it cost 3,000 Marks, and I know that we would have asked at least the double amount.

Emily and Mr. K. climbed the steeple while the good old sacristan entertained us, and the organist was practicing on the organ.

We then went to the market place, where we admired an old fountain and called on Mrs. Gayler, sister of Clara and Theodor Bauer in Cincinnati and step-sister to Louis Baur, a fine old lady of 70 odd years, who was delighted to see us. Mama had to take the seat of honor on the sopha [sic], and we talked of her folks in America.

Her niece, a Mrs. Gayler, was there on a visit and told me that she has a brother in St. Louis, Carl Gayler, who lives at 2917 Henrietta St., and I promised to look him up when I returned.

We walked around the streets for a while and took a train for Tubingen at 7:10. It was too dark by this time to see much of the country, and it was only a short ride of 30 minutes anyhow.

At Tubingen, we went to a hotel near the depot, the “Goldener Ochse.” Our way there led us through a fine promenade with grand old trees. We had nice rooms and, after a good supper in a good old fashioned wirths stube, we retired for the night, much pleased with our day’s doings.


Stuttgart, September 1, 1909

Technical High School.

My dear boy—

It is so nice to be awakened by the sweet song of the orphan boys across the street. I went to Rev. Moeller after breakfast, and he showed our church to me, which is quite an imposing building.

From there, I went to see Miss Marie Paulus and her sister Elise. Miss Marie is one of the best vocal instructors in Stuttgart. I was met by her sister and 1/2 doz. dogs. It was very interesting to talk with them of olden times, and they gave me some information regarding the survivors of my Salon days. Marie remembers the Nulsens well and sends her love to them.

I returned to the hotel, and together we went to the Gewerbe Museum. The chief features of the interior are the grand staircase and the exhibition gallery, which is adorned with a painted frieze 98 feet long. There is a wonderful collection of French and English textile fabrics, with samples for 1840 to the present day, with over 300,000 samples. Besides this, a collection of Japanese textile fabrics and over 10,000 patterns of French and German carpets. Of course, we did not look at all of them.

After dinner, we walked up to the nice Neckar Street to the Museum der Bildende Kunste (Museum of Art) with its very fine collection of more than a thousand paintings of which we preferred to look at the modern ones.

Many of these are by Swabian painters, and I will only mention those which aroused my special attention, among them Makart’s “Cleopatra,” Lenbach’s “Emp. William I,” Uhde’s “Last Supper.”

From here, we went to the Stifts Kirche, a fine old Gothic building with two handsome towers and beautiful reliefs over one of the portals, “Christ Bearing the Cross,” and “Christ and the Apostles.” The church has been used for Protestant services since 1534. The stained glass made in 1848 is especially fine. In the choir are the Nativity Crucifixion, Resurrection, Pentacost and the Last Judgment, and in the organ loft, “King David.”

Collegiate Church with Schiller monument.

Of special interest are the all stone figures of Counts of Wurtemberg by the wall of the Choir. Many old and very artistic monuments adorn the side chapels, among them a painted stone monument of Count Albert von Hohenlohe who died in 1575.

There is also an old votive relief in stone representing “Christ as the Judge of the World,” and, beneath it, the “Wise and Foolish Virgins.” The pulpit is carved in stone and has fine reliefs. I was very much interested in one of the windows, a Memorial of Caplan Kapf, whom I heard preach when I was a boy and whose portrait is in the window.