Hirschberg & Dresden, June 30, 1909

The happy days have passed and we have to prepare for our departure. We have been treated with so much love and attention that it is hard for us to part, and we have persuaded cousin Josef to let Aennchen go with us to Dresden to stay until Saturday. She is a dear young lady, and Emily and she had their picture taken in Tyrolese costume.

Emily Jacoby in her Tyrolese costume.

Josef‘s carriage drove up at 1 o’clock and, together with cousin Marie (Josef’s wife), we drove to Hirschberg, an old town with 18,000 inhabitants.

Hirschberg. Warmbrunner Square.

Here we took a train for Goerlitz, where we changed cars. It began to rain, and we could not see much of the scenery. We passed through Bautzen, quite an important town, and arrived at Dresden about 7 and went to the Drei Raben for supper. It rained so much that we could not go anywhere, but we had a look at some of the stores and went to bed early.

No mail, although I ordered it forwarded from Berlin, and so I suppose it is somewhere with Adolf or perhaps Cook’s.

Good-bye, God bless and keep you. All send love.

Dresden. King John Road.

Riesengebirge, June 29, 1909

The Schlingel chalet (1067 m) with the Prince Heinrich chalet and the pond borders[?] in the background (1410 m).

At 11 o’clock, the carriage called, and Joseph, Aennchen, Emily and I rode up to the Brod baude. These “Baude“ are similar to our block houses. In the large room, they have one of these immense tile stoves which sometimes has to be heated in summer, as it is cold up high when the sun is not shining.

The cattle are kept under the same roof, and above them the necessary feed for the long winter days. In this hayloft, the foot tourist finds a night’s lodging. The winter lasts eight months, and snow covers the ground sometimes as high as 9 to 15 and even 20 feet. It covers the windows of the houses, and sometimes it rises up to a gable of the roof, compelling the inhabitants to dig a tunnel from the door to the out houses.

In winter the roads are indicated by long poles which are driven into the ground in fall. If a strong wind is blowing, and the storm blows the snow in all directions, the inhabitants have to remain in the baude, sometimes for days.

But in summer, the Baude becomes the meeting place of the tourist and some of them have been turned into hotels or restaurants, and they have very cozy looking rooms fitted up with old style furniture, with the walls decorated and with very nice mottoes.

Riesengebirge. The Hampelbaude.

Here is one from the Hampel baude, which we reached after a climb of 2 hours and where we took our dinner:
“Erbaut wetterfesteb Mannen,
Aus alten sturmgefeiten Tanen,
Und Berggrabit mit Muh gespalten,
Nun hoff mit Gott ich Stand zu halten.”*

Riesengebirge. Inside the new Hampelbaude.

The owner of this Baude has a very pretty winter home in Krumhubel and is quite rich for it pays to entertain the summer tourists. All the eatables and drinkibles [sic] have to be carried up to the higher Baudes, and they charge 2 1/2¢ for a glass of water.

We had a fine dinner, and the girls started for Schneekoppe, which is 5,248 feet above the sea level, while our starting point, Arnsdorf, is only 1,415 feet, where the snow is still lying in some places 2 to 3 feet deep. I could not resist the temptation to snow ball with Joseph.

View of the Schneekoppe mountain and the Prince Heinrich Chalet.

We reached this place in an hour, and we had some very stiff climbing, but constantly such grand scenery that we did not notice the work. They are planting the dwarf pines in the empty places, although it may take 10 to 15 years before it is 3 feet high. The Germans have a law by which a new tree has to be planted for every one which is cut down or dies, and you see “Schlonungen“ or rather young plantations of pines and firs all along the mountains, i.e., a seed is put into the ground at regular distances, and the little tree is watched and nursed as it grows up until it gets to be five years old, when it begins to grow more rapidly. By the time it is 50 years old, it can be cut down and replaced by a new one and so on “Ad infinitum.” That’s what we will have to come to in the U.S.

After a short rest, we began our descent, and, let me tell you, it is harder on the legs than the ascent. A short distance down, we saw a monument erected to the founder of the “Riesengebirge Tourist Club” which has members all over Germany and whose object it is to make good roads over the mountains and to keep them good repair. The monument has been put together with rocks from all parts of Germany, where ever there is a club belonging to this society, and I saw among there a rock from New York Club, taken from the Hudson River.

There is a Big Lake here, within a basin surrounded by huge rocks, which looks as if it had been made by man. A descent of 1,100 feet brought us to the Schlingelbaude at 5:15, and, about half an hour later, the girls joined us, and we descended to the Brodbaude where Josef‘s coach awaited us and took us to Krumhubel. Here we met the entire family, they having walked 3/4 hour to meet us, and Josef and I footed it home.

*Editor’s note: If anyone can more accurately translate this, please share. Given the resources of the internet, this is the best I could do (Muh completely defeated me).
“Built in weather by good men,
From old storm fallen firs
And mountain granite split with Muh,
Now with God I hope it stands.”

Riesengebirge. The Schlingelbaude (1067 m.)

Arnsdorf, June 28, 1909

This morning I was kept busy writing, and Mama and I took a walk through the village. It is a pleasure to walk through a German village, the old houses look so neat with the vines or trees trained up the walls, and the new houses are built very prettily.

We have decided to stay another day, and we have planned an excursion for to-morrow.

Editor’s note: Because there is no relevant postcard for today, I’m bumping one a day out of order. As you’ll see, there’s a poem. If anyone can translate it, or point me toward a translation, I’d really appreciate it. There may even be a fun reward. Good luck. 


Arnsdorf, June 27, 1909

A beautiful and quiet sabbath day in this nice, little village surrounded by the Giant Mountains, so called because folk lore has it that they were inhabited by giants, and the mountain grove, “Rubegahl,” plays an important part in the stories told in the long winter evenings at the fireside of the mountaineer.

Cousin Joseph, who is about my age and a great tourist, proposed a short walk or climb after dinner, and so we started out for “Bergfrieden” Bande and thence to the Anna Chapel, an old church situated in a quiet spot, next to a Forrester’s home. It was built in 1718 by the Schaffgotsch family who owns considerable estate around this part of the country.

Another climb brought us to the Brotbande, 2,690 feet above the sea level. These Bauden are Peasant’s houses which, many years ago, were the only places where tourists could find a night’s lodging, generally in the hayloft. Since the foot tourists overflood this country, they have erected large roomy and comfortable inns which they still call “Bauden.”

A little further up, we saw some wild deer and, climbing still higher, we came to the Kirche Wang, a little church brought from Valders in Norway by in 1894. It is a good example of the Norwegian “Stavekirker,” or timber church.

The Countess Reden Fountain of the Wang Church.

Passing through Bruckenberg, (3,100 feet), which is a favorite summer resort with many hotels and restaurants, we began the descent and, on a gradually descending snake road, we reached Krummhubel, some 1,400 feet lower. Here we met the priest who is building a new church, and he told me that he had not made a contract for his windows and regretted that our factory is not situated nearer to him. On our walk, we had beautiful views of the valleys and mountains, and we enjoyed them very much.

The lower slopes are clothed with silver firs, pines, larches and beeches, but higher up, the forest zone terminates, and you find only the dwarf pine and gentian, Icelandic moss, devils beard, of which I picked and pressed a specimen, and other alpine plants.

It is impossible to describe the charm of such a Fusstour—it must be entered into to give you an idea of it. You absolutely forgot that you are walking and climbing, and you inhale the fine air, listen to the birds, enjoy the constantly changing views and keep moving on and up. No wonder the German is a foot tourist, and you meet them right along, not only the young, but also the old and fat as well as the lean, all seem to enjoy it. Some of them carry their supply in a Rucksack (knapsack) on their back. They are dressed for climbing, and they go from one peak to another, sleeping where they can find an inn on their road.

Krumhubel & Bruckenberg above it are summer resorts, and you would open your eyes if you would see all the hotels and lodging houses. It has only 850 inhabitants, but some 8,000 guests come here during the season and make their foot tours into the neighboring mountains.

We returned home in time for supper and spent a very nice musical evening together.

Cousin Joseph is the manager of a large paper factory and has a very pretty home with a large garden right near the factory. He keeps a carriage and coachman and a gardener. His oldest son is also in the Paper Manufacturing business and Director of a large factory in Wurtemberg.

The next one, Theodore, you met in Neuss. He is going to learn with his brother. Rudolphine, the oldest, is married to a teacher and lives in Kattowitz Schlesien. She is here with her boy on a visit. She was engaged and married the same time Pearl was, and her boy is a lively fellow. The youngest daughter, Aennchencis, about 20, is a very pretty and lively girl.

Riesengebirge & Arnsdorf, June 26, 1909

Early at 8 o’clock, we started away from Reichenberg and had a pleasant ride up the mountain to Gruental where we had to pass the custom house again. We passed through Gablonz with the largest factories of glass bricabracs, which are exported from here to the U.S. They have 170 Export Houses, which gives you an idea of the size of their export trade.

We now reached the Riesengebirge and found the place to contain many hotels for Summer Tourists. At Hermsdorf, cousin Joseph Fritsch awaited us with his carriage, and we had a pleasant hour’s drive to Arnsdorf. More about this place and the people in my next. I am glad to be able to close this and get it off to you.

Your affectionate,

Arnsdorf im Riesengebirge. The Countess Matuschka’s Castle.

Reichenberg, June 25, 1909

Reichenberg im Breisgau. Theater and post office.

We arose early and took a train at the Haupt Bahnhof at 9 o’clock. We rode through fertile country with many factories and arrived at Bischofwerda in time for dinner. Here we passed into Austria and had our traps examined by the custom house officers.

We reached Reichenberg in the afternoon at 2 o’clock and were met by Robert Fritsch. This is the city where your mama was born. It has 60,000 inhabitants and has large cloth factories, one of which was owned by Mama’s father (Ed. note: Anton Buder), and Robert told me again and again that if Anton had not sold out and gone to America, he would have become a multi millionaire like all others who were in the same business at his time.

He took us to a modern hotel, which is one of the prettiest hotels I have seen, with modern improvements, all art glass and bevel plates, decorations and finishings in L’Art Nouveau style.

Schienhof Hotel and Cafe
[Ed. note: cannot determine what “Ranges” means in this context.]

We went to the Krenz Kirche, erected in 1695, which has a very fine altar with wood carving. In front of this altar, the Fritsch and the Buder parents were married some 60 years ago, and here we stood for a few moments and thought of all that has happened since and how, after all these years, Robert and your mama visited this spot to remember the past.

We passed through old street and look up the old Gymnasium building, which was sold to the city by the Grandmother and, wherein, are the old family papers regarding the history of Kinsky and Beyer families.

We took a ride out to Siebenhauser where the families of Reichenberg have gone for years past to enjoy their cup of coffee and to gossip and do handwork. The houses have grown and where, at Grandmother’s time, a small Forresters [sic] but was large enough for the guests, large buildings are now hardly big enough for the many who come out for an airing.

We took a look at the old house on the Friedlanderstr #24 which belonged to Mama’s grandfather and also at the old stadtmuehle, which was his old factory and, of course, we had to wind up with a wine cellar, Werner’s, where Grand- & Great Grand-father sat in their time and drank a glass of wine. We found the old gray haired business men sitting at their Stammtisch, resting from the day’s labor. We had to eat sausage fresh from the smokehouse, because R. is celebrated on account of its sausage factories.

And finally we wound up at the hotel and glad to get to bed.

Editor’s note: Stadtmuehle, roughly translated, means “city mill.” Stammtisch means “regular table.”

Reichenberg in Breisgau. Chamber of Commerce.

Dresden, June 24, 1909

Our first walk takes us right through the Zwinger as it is so near to the hotel. The Museum forms the N.E. wing of this building, which was erected in 1711. It consists of 7 pavilions connected by a gallery of one story and enclosing an oblong court 128 yards long by 117 yards wide. In the center of this court is a bronze monument of Frederick Augustine I. It is very pleasant walking through this beautiful court.

Dresden. Zwingerteich. [pond by the Zwinger palace museum]

This morning we went to the Palace. On the ground floor is the “Green Vault” (Grunes Gewolbe), which contains one of the most valuable existing collections of curiosities, jewels, trinkets and small works of art. The German goldsmith’s work of the 16th and 17th century, the enamels of Limoges and the arts of ivory carving and crystal cutting are particularly well represented.

The Fall of the Angels in 142 figures carved out of a single mass of ivory about 1 foot high. Goblets and other vessels made of ostrich eggs and shells. Beautiful vessels in chalcedony agate, lapis-lazuli, oriental jasper and onyx. A very curious [text missing] representing the Tower of Babel (perpetum). The largest known enamel upon copper, a Mary Magdalen by Dingliner.

Jewels, including the Saxon Crown Jewels and ornaments, green diamond 48 1/2 carats weight set in a hat clasp, a shoulder-knot with a brilliant 59 carats weight, a bow with 662 diamonds. The Court of Grand Mogul Aurungzebe of Delhi with 1232 moveable figures, also by Dinglinger, and many other valuable and pretty ornaments.

We next ascended a few flights of stairs to view the rooms occupied by the King in winter. The Ball Room, the Throne Room, and all the other rooms are embellished with beautiful frescoes by Bendeman (1845), the walls are hung with hand work tapestry, and the furniture is very rich and tasty.

After having seen all this, we concluded to see the Silver Room which contains the King’s plate and table linen. In many closets and glass cases are the silver dishes, spoons, etc., which are Table sets. We saw napkins which have been in use since 1735 and good damask table cloths worth $250.00 each. Sorry we could not take a set or two with us, but it is all well guarded.

From here we went to the Museum Johanneum, a collection of weapons, armour, domestic chattels, costumes, and other objects of historical and artistic value, such as inlaid ebony cabinets made in 1615, artistic clocks, a Turkish Tent of the Grand Visier Kara Mustapha captured at the raise of the siege of Vienna in 1683 by the German and Polish armies.

On the second floor is a collection of Porcelain with about 20,000 specimens of Chinese, Japanese, Indian, French, Dresden and Italian workmanship. It is the finest collection of the kind in existence. Among them the “Dragoon Vases,” monumental vases of cobalt blue said to have been given by Fred Wilhelm I of Prussia to Augustine the Strong in 1717 in exchange for a Regiment of Dragoons.

The collection of Dresden china is very interesting. The chemist Bottger, who lived from 1682 to 1719, discovered the secret of making porcelain in 1709, at first producing only red stone ware, but soon afterwards also white porcelain.

The manufacture was removed from Dresden to Meissen in 1710. There are some beautiful figures and groups made of china, and one of them gave rise to a dispute between Emily and myself as I thought the thin veil hung over a woman’s head was lace while she declared it to be china. She was right, and the guard explained how it is produced.

We had about enough of sight seeing and, after a good dinner, we took a nap and hired a cab to drive us across the Augustus Bridge into New Dresden where we saw some fine buildings, a pleasant drive along the slopes of the vineclad hills on the Elbe, passing numerous villas and the popular restaurant “Waldschlosschen” and the Albrechtsberg with a handsome modern chateau the property of Court Hohenan.

Dresden. Augustus Bridge.
Ständehaus, Georgentor (the original city exit from Dresden to the Elbe bridge), Catholic Court Church, Castle Tower, St. Sophia’s Church, Picture Gallery, Royal Opera House.

Here we saw the crown prince of Saxony and his younger brother accompanied by the Kings adjudant [Ed. note: text missing?] brought us to Loschwitz, a suburb of Dresden, where we passed the house of Theodore Koiner where Schiller wrote his Don Carlos. Crossing the Elbe, we came to Blasewitz and through the Grosse Garten (which I described in a former letter) to the restaurant, Drei Raben, where we finished the day with a good supper.

Dresden, June 23, 1909

I went to Cooks early in the morning and to the Post Office, but found no mail from you, so I wrote to Berlin to have our mail sent here, and I guess we will get it when we return from Arnsdorf next week.

We took dinner at the hotel and afterwards went to the celebrated Picture Gallery which occupies the first and second floor of the Museum. This gallery which ranks with the Louvre, Pitti and Uffizi galleries as one of the finest collections in the world, is essentially the creation of August III (1733 to 1763) who added to the previously existing royal gallery by the purchase of the Modena gallery (1745). The Sistine Madonna from Piacenza (1753) and numerous Dutch and Flemish cabinet pieces were also added about this period.

We passed through a corridor and the Cupola room, as well as four adjacent rooms, to the corner room which contains the Sistine Madonna by Raphael. It is 6 feet wide by 8 feet high. I need not describe it to you as you have seen it, and the colored postal which is in our album is a good copy of the coloring. It was painted about 1515 and was bought in 1753 for $55,000.00.

Dresden. The Sistine Madonna. Rafaello Sanzio (da Urbino)

Among the many master pieces, I can mention only a few: Titian’s Holy Night; Palma Vecchio’s Jacob & Rachael and Madonna & Child with John and St. Catherine; Titian’s The Tribute Money, painted about 1514; Guido Reni’s Ecce Homo (the three different kinds); and an old copy of Holbein the Younger’s Virgin & Child.

Passing along to the Upper Floor, we saw among the modern master pieces many of Defregger’s fine pictures of Tyrolese life, Munkaczy’s Crufixion, von Uhde’s Holy Night, H. Markart’s Summer and Hoffmann’s Christ in the Temple.

On the Ground Floor we saw that pretty pastel by Liotard, The Chocolate Girl, (now used by Baker as his trade mark) and The Beautiful Lyonnaise. We had to “Tear ourselves away” from this grand collection with an “Au revoir.”

Liotard. Dresden. The Chocolate Girl.

We all went to “Meeting” in the evening and, after that, to a café for a light refreshment and to bed.


Message to Miss Josephine Hunt from Emily (from the back of the Sistine Madonna postcard).

Dresden, June 22, 1909

We did manage to “Tear ourselves away,” from the loved ones, but we spent another morning with them and left at 12:30 for Aussig. Robert and his youngest (Martha) accompanied us to Aussig and saw us off.

We passed the border unmolested—the custom house officer just looked at us and at the suit cases and said: “I guess you have nothing but wearing apparel,” and I agreed with him. We had a fine panorama along the Elbe, almost up to Dresden, where we arrived at four in the afternoon and found our rooms all ready at the “Wettin” hotel, which is around the corner from the Edelweiss where you stopped. I preferred it on account of its being fitted up new and on a more quiet street.

Dresden: Old Town Square, Main Guard, Royal Castle, Wettin Obelisk

We had our supper at the hotel and, after that, we walked to the Bruhl Terrace. This pretty garden rises above the river Elbe and commands a fine view of the river. It is approached by a broad flight of 41 steps, adorned with gilded groups of Night, Evening, Noon and Morning. The terrace is planted with trees and, of course, there is a restaurant and music.

Dresden – Steamship Landing Area – Terraces by the shore.
Church of Our Lady, Royal Art Academy, Castle Tower, Ständehaus, Catholic Court Church, Royal Opera House

We decided to look around town and came just in time to view a grand torch light procession of students. They were in parade dress, and the “Corps flag” was always in a carriage, protected by three students. We saw the different kinds of costumes worn by the different societies. There were hundreds of students on foot and on horseback, each bearing a torch, and many music bands, the musicians in evening dress with high hats.

To bed in good time as we were pretty tired.

Mariaschein & Aussig, June 21, 1909

Salutations to the solstice.

This has been a wonderful day. We arose early and took a train for Aussig on the Elbe. This busy town, with 30,000 inhabitants, lies at the influx of the Biela into the Elbe. Large factories and brisk coal trade occupy the inhabitants. The vast, brown coal seams of North Bohemia lie a little to the west, and thousands of cars of coal are brought daily and transferred to the large river barges at a special coaling harbor.

A bold rock on the right bank of the Elbe, 280 feet high, resembling the Lorelei on the Rhine, is crowned with the ruins of Schreckenstein. We went abroad one of the Elbe steamers and rode down to Herrnskretschen, the last Bohemian town on the right bank of the Elbe.

Schreckstein near Aussig.

The banks of this river are very picturesque, and we certainly enjoyed the ride, which lasted about three hours. The constantly changing scenery and the many boats which we saw made us forget time.

At Herrnskretchen, we took a cab and rode through beautiful pine woods for about an hour. We saw the Prebischtor, a very peculiar formation of a rocky arch of imposing dimensions.

At Rainwiese, we took dinner, and, at 2 o’clock, we began the descent into the “Wilde Klamm,” a remarkable rocky gorge of the mountain stream called Kamnitz. The road leads along the wonderful sandstone cliffs and, in many places, a tunnel has been made through them, while, at other places, heavy iron beams have been let into the rock, and plank walks laid on them. In one place, the stream has been banked up so that it became deep enough for a boat to navigate, and here we had to get into the boat as the only means of passing through the gorge, the cliffs arising on each side to a dizzy height.


Wild Edmundsklamm. Bohemian Switzerland.

The ferns and wild wood flowers grow wherever there is a crack in the rock, and the pines seem to have rooted right into the rock. The birds sang, and now and then we could see a spreckled [sic] trout jump out of the water to catch an insect.

After a walk of an hour and a half, we suddenly emerged upon a plateau upon which the practicable German has built a restaurant, and here we found many a tired tourist enjoying a cup of coffee or a more substantial meal.

The German is a great lover of nature, but he takes good care to select his excursions to spots where he can get something good to eat and drink, too, so the enterprising hotelier erects restaurants in every pretty spot and knows how to display his wares.

I found neat little tanks with glass fronts let right into the wall of the hotel building, where passers by could see the spreckled trout swimming around and where he could select the one he wants to eat.

The trip through the Edmunds Klamm took another hour, and here we sat in the boat, surrounded by the great wonderful works of the Almighty, we became silent and gazed in awed admiration at the grand old rocks which showed the traces of having been washed by rushing waters for centuries past, when this deep gorge was filled with rushing water.

Bohemian Switzerland. Edmundsklamm.
The Klamm family: father, mother, five children, and the mother-in-law.

We emerged at the pretty village of Herren Kretschen and took a boat down the little mountain stream to the landing of the Elbe ferry boat. Crossing to Schona, we had to wait a short time for the train, and again the accommodating German has planted a Gasthaus in front of the R.R. track with tables and chairs out in the open where the tired tourist sits down and, eating and drinking, awaits his trains.

A short ride brings us to Bodenbach, the frontier town where we changed cars for Calvarienberg, a station of Mariaschein where we awaited the music band and Turners who shortly afterwards came marching up from the town and, amid great ceremonies, lit the bonfire. This is done by the Germans of Bohemia in memory of an old German custom. They have an organization all over Austria to protect themselves against the Czechen and Slavon who try to suppress the German language and turn Austria into a Slavonis state.

The Confederation of Germans in Bohemia.

All around on the mountains, the fires were lit, and, singing patriotic songs, we retired to the city hall where the festival was continued until late. I formed the acquaintance of some very nice men. Late to bed.

Editor’s note: Intrigued by “Bohemian Switzerland,” my cousin Richard Jacoby did a little research, and this is what he learned: “According to what I found out Edmundsklam is a tourist spot in the Czech Republic and is known as the Bohemian Switzerland.  In 1909 it was still in the Bohemian region of Austria-Hungary and, as Hermann points out, full of Germans.” Thanks for clarifying that geographical mystery, Richard.  

Edmundsklamm. Bohemian Switzerland. The broad stone [rough translation].

Mariaschein, June 20, 1909

A beautiful day. To-morrow is Sonnenwende, i.e., the sun has reached its highest point and the National Germans in Austria celebrate this by lighting bon fires on the mountain tops. As this place is surrounded by mountains, we have decided to stay another day to see it.

We arose in good time and rested all morning. Took a walk up to Graupen and had dinner upon our return with Robert. It’s eat, eat, eat all day, and they cannot understand why we cannot keep up with the procession.

Greetings from the romantic mountain town of Graupen.

After dinner, a nap and, after that, a climb up a little mountain to Heinrichsruh and old Ritterburg, but now a restaurant where we took a cup of coffee.

Home in time for supper, and, after that, we had music and Robert wounds up the evening by treating the entire assembly to champagne and making us a very neat farewell speech. To-morrow Emily and I go to the Sachsische Schweig with Johann to see the Edmunds Klamm and the Elbe, and, early the next morning, we leave for Dresden.

From there, we go to see the oldest brother at Arusdorf in Riesengebirge, and thence to Berlin. This will make us some ten days late in our trip, but Mama has a good chance to get acquainted with all her relatives, which is with her a main object of this trip. I am having my mail sent to Dresden.

Ta, ta,


Mariaschein, June 19, 1909


We are still here and we have decided to stay until Tuesday morning. We are nicely housed with Cousin Minna, and they insist on our staying a few days. They have a very large garden with fruit trees, small fruit and vegetables, and Mama is happy because Cousin Minna can tell her all about the family history.

We loafed around all morning, took a nap after dinner and took a train to Telnitz, from where we walked to view the battlefield of Kulm, where the united Austrian, Prussian and Russian forces gained a victory over the French army under Van Dome in 1813.

Greetings from the battlefield at Kulm, 1813

From here, the French fled to Leipzig where they took another stand and were defeated for good. The Austrians erected a monument in honor of field Marshall Colorado Mansfield, and the Prussians one in honor of their dead. The prettiest one, however, is that of the Russians. They are guarded by an old veteran, and he showed me the book in which Kings and Princes, who have visited these monuments, have written their names—to which I added mine.

We walked home, which took us about two and a half hours. This, however, is nothing unusual in this country; Cousin Johann tells me that he has made a trip starting at 4 o’clock in the morning and walking uninterrupted (with short rests for meals) until 8 o’clock in the evening.

In the evening, we met at Cousin Robert’s and had music and talk. They are fine, whole souled people who try their best to make us feel at home.

Tomb of Karl Ferdinand Wilhelm von Röder
Editor’s note: the following is a rough translation:
King, Prussian, Major in the General Staff.
Born on 16 July 1781, remained in the battle at Kulm on 30 August 1813.
Greetings from Argesau.


Chemnitz and Dresden, June 18, 1909

I arose in good time and I was at the church at the opening of the session. Bishop Crauston welcomed me and introduced me to the Conference as the son of the founder of Methodism in Germany and Switzerland. I made a short address and took leave of the brethren. Back to the hotel and left for Dresden at 11:35.

Reached this city at 1 p.m. and went at once to look up a Pension with which I have been in correspondence. I looked at some rooms and returned to the depot to learn that I could not get a train for Mariaschein and make good connections until 5 o’clock, so I hired a one horse shay and drove around to other pensions and hotels and saw the different “Schenwirdigkeiten” and wound up with a drive through the Grosse Garten, a royal park laid out in 1676, which covers an area of 375 acres. In 1813, it was the scene of several sharp engagements between the French and the Prussians.

The park is intersected by two broad avenues at right angles to each other, and is embellished with marble groups. At the intersection of these stands the Lustschloss, a chateau built by Augustus the Strong in 1680. The landscape gardens surrounding this pretty palace are specially fine, and they are kept in excellent order. The lawns are kept clean of weeds by women who work on them on their knees all day. I shall not try to say more about Dresden as we will return next week.

The ride on the train from Dresden to Bodenbach along the Elbe and from Bodenbach to Aussig was very interesting. The scenery is grand.

We passed the Konigstein, a fortress which was formerly regarded as impregnable and, in time of war, the treasure and archives of Saxony were usually deposited there.

On the opposite bank is the Lilienstein. On the Elbe, as small as it is, there is a constant passing up and down of barges. They are pulled along by a chain. Along its banks are many factories, in fact, an uninterrupted chain of them, and it astonishes you to see this great extend of manufacture. You begin to understand where so many of the things “Made in Germany” find their origin. It is just wonderful.

At Aussig, I had time to sup, and at 8:30 p.m. I reached home, welcomed by Mama, Emily and Johann.

Editor’s note: Schenwirdigkeiten roughly translates to “economic difficulties.” Because Hermann puts this word within quotation marks, he may be making a joke about the cost of lodgings. 


Chemnitz. Carola Street, view of the new Theater & Petrikirche.

Teplitz and Chemnitz, June 17, 1909

This morning early I took leave of the ladies and took the Electric to Eichwald, a pretty summer resort situated in a ravine and on a large slope with a kurhaus [spa] and baths. On the road, we passed numerous mines of brown coal and factories.

From here, I footed it through the beautiful pine wood to the R.R. station, which lies high up on the mountains, and it took me about 45 minutes to go there. But the roads are kept in such excellent order in this country that you walk as if on a sidewalk of concrete.

The wild strawberries are in bloom, and the birds are singing. The mountain air, fresh and cool, gives you a feeling of freedom and vigor so that the time passes, and you do not notice that you are walking and climbing higher and higher.

I passed a turbulent mountain brook, which, when the snow melts in the mountains, becomes a rushing stream and does much damage. To prevent this, the government steps in and sends its masons and helpers (women), the bottom of the ravine is reached and scaffolds are re-erected. A wall is built from the bottom up to the road and some feet above it to prevent accidents. This may take a year of years, “But it is done,” and there it stands good for centuries, constantly examined and repaired where necessary.

Or, from a slope above the road, the soil may be washed by the rains upon the well kept road, so the government sends its men and women, and they build little ditches and where necessary pave the entire slope with stone. In this manner, they find work for their subjects and keep their roads in good order.

From Eichwalk station, the train climbs up to Moldan and gradually descends into the valley. The view was grand. In this place, I had to open my little bundle and have it examined by the German custom house officers. We now passed through a rich farming country with its quaint old farm houses, and we reached Freiberg, a mining town, founded in 1170 on the discovery of its silver mines. It is the seat of a Mining Academy with some 500 students, among them many Americans.

Freiberg. Panoramic view.

Here, I had to change cars for Chemnitz, which I reached at 12:30. I was met by my nephew Rev. Paul Grunewald (Armine Achard’s husband). We took dinner at the hotel and afterwards walked through the city to the church where the Nord Deutschland Conference has its session.

Chemnitz is one of the largest towns in Saxony. It has more than 200,000 inhabitants and is one of the most important manufacturing towns in Germany. The staple products are stockings, gloves, wove goods and machinery. Large quantities of these are exported to the U.S.

Chemnitz of the Future.
S.M. Airship Mars. Wine for Venus Restaurant.

We passed the Rathaus in front of which stands a bronze monument of Emp. Wilhelm I and, on each side, his loyal assistants Bismark and Moltke. At the church, I found many of the old preachers who studied under Father’s direction: Eilers, Klusner, Pritzlaf, Prante, Bruns, also our nephew Junker (Hortense Achard’s husband) and Burkhardt and Anner, who was one of the delegates to the last General Conference, Kaufman, etc. Of course, they were glad to see me, and we had a regular old time chat.

I took supper with Paul at his host’s who is the Hausmeister (watchman) of a large factory. His home is at the gate of the factory, and he has to keep watch over it. At the same time, he has the cantine, i.e., the hands can buy eatibles and also drinkibles of him.

After supper, he took us to the beautiful Stadpark in which there is a Rosengarten laid out in a grand manner. We had quite a walk, and I went to the hotel ready for my bed and rest.

Teplitz, June 16, 1909

Of course we all arose late and did nothing this morning. Mama and Emily went shopping and bought a pretty sweater for Mama, the kind which are made here in great quantities together with other woven goods. We had an early dinner as Cousin Minna is coming into take us around to see the sights of Teplitz.

At about 3 o’clock, we started in a two horse carriage, driving through Schönau, which has been annexed to Teplitz. We ascended the Schlossberg, 1,286 feet above the sea level, by a winding path through a beautiful woods. On the top is a ruined castle, partially restored with a belvedere tower from which we enjoyed a fine view of the surrounding country which looked like picture.

View of the castle on the mountain at Teplitz.

Of course, there is a restaurant connected with the burg as the German cannot possibly enjoy a drive minus his beer or coffee. Returning we enjoyed a drive through the town and saw the pleasant kurgarten [beer garden] which is enclosed by the handsome buildings of the Herrenhaus, the Kursalon, the Kaiserbad and the Theatre.

A number of the patients assemble here at an early hour to drink the Teplitz and other waters while the band discourses its music. It is still early in the season and too cold for water, but it seems never too cold for beer.

The Jews are in evidence here and have a fine synagogue. The Schloss garten at the back of Prince Clary Aldringens Schloss occupies the highest site of the town and has a fine old timber and two large ponds enlivened with swans.

To-morrow I leave by a very pretty route through the mountains for Chemnitz to attend the Conference of the North German Conf., and the ladies will go to Mariaschein to stay in the Jungfernheim of Cousin Minna. She is a dear old girl and rejoices over the fact that she will have them with her for two nights.

And here I must close. Mama will add a few lines. We are certainly enjoying good health, good weather and the good living and we are grateful to you that you are sending us such cheerful letters and grateful to God for all his mercies to us.

We are a little behind time, but we will catch up in the Harz and Bremen where we will not stay as long as planned.

Love to all of you, Charley, tell all the boys “How de” from me, and I am thinking of them. How often have we said, “If only Charley could be with us” to enjoy all of this and the relatives keep saying, “Why didn’t he come, we would have been so pleased to entertain him and become acquainted.” Theodore seems to have taken quite a liking to you.

Well, Schluss,

Editor’s note: Jungfernheim roughly translates to “maiden’s home,” differentiating it, I suppose, from a real home, where Minna would lived with her husband and children. “Conference of the North German Conf.” probably refers to a Methodist conference, which Hermann would have attended as the son of renowned Methodist missionary Ludwig Jacoby. “The boys” Hermann refers to are most likely the workers at Jacoby Art Glass. Schluss means “closing.” 

The castle moat (rough translation) at Schlossberg.

Teplitz & Graupen, June 15, 1909

Teplitz-Schönau spa.

This has been a fine day with us. We took train at 10 o’clock and went to Mariaschein and in to cousin Minna’s maiden home, where we had a fine dinner. She has all the old household goods of her mother, Mrs. or Tante Fritsch, your great aunt.

After dinner we all took a nap, and cousin Johann called for us to take us up to the Ruin Rosenberg from where we had a fine view of the entire valley with many villages and hundreds of coal mines. From here, we could not only see the surrounding mountains, but also Teplitz. There is a very pretty garden on the ruins of the old burg, and the prince who owns it comes here once a year and camps out.

Rosenburg Castle ruins.

These mountains are the Erzgebirge, and we passed through the old mining town, Graupen, on our way home. Here we saw some fine old houses, and we also went into the old church and saw something entirely different from what I have seen in other churches. On one side, in the interior of the church, a flight of stairs is built leading up to an altar and called the “Scala Sacra” (holy stairs) in imitation of the one in Rome but above it, on a balcony, are the figures of Christ (Ecce Homo) and Pilate carved in life size of wood. On each side of the holy stair is another one, and above these, in windows, are the figures of Jews gesticulating and pointing towards Christ.

Graupen in Bohemia. Inside the church.

This work was made in 1730, and the figures are all worm eaten. The center stairs made of red marble may be ascended on the knees only, so we walked up the side stairs. There are other wooden figures in the side walls, one representing “Purgatory” with figures submerged to their arms and heads, a red light is thrown on them from a window, which makes the carvings look like fire. Here, out of the fount which dates back hundreds of years, Johann’s latest one, a boy, was baptized a few Sundays ago.

By the way, Rich’d, his fourth boy, when told of the new arrival said, “Noch so ein kerl.” (What, another urchin?), and the oldest asked “How do you know it is a boy? You may have made a mistake.” They all wanted a sister.

I tell you, these little foot tours are grand. They do not tire you because you see much beautiful scenery with constant changes. No wonder that the inhabitants go “Climbing” and walking on holidays and Sundays.

We reached home with an appetite for coffee, which was soon after followed by supper, after which we sat with Johann’s Family, and he played on a accordion and his wife sang Austrian “Folk songs.” Mama sang, too, and I played for her on their piano.

Home with the late train and to bed at midnight.

Postcard to Miss Josephine Hunt, June 15, 1909

Teplitz and Mariaschein, Sunday, June 13, 1909

Teplitz – Schönau

Early this morning, we received our Dresden mail: three Apologetes, Brother Becker’s letter, Tante Sophie’s, one from Tante Richen, one from Miss Hunt and yours of the 27. Of course, we were happy.

Alfred and Robert called for us, and together we went to Mariaschein, where we went to the old church which, in connection with a Jesuit Monastery, is a famous pilgrimage spot.

Our dinner we took with Robert, and supper upstairs with Johann, and it was quite a treat to see how they appreciated the visit of the American cousins, and we became very chummy. They are a very nice set, and I am glad that we called and came closer to each other. Your not calling on them last year was the cause of many tears on the part of cousin Minna and Alfred. I “Got fits” for not sending you.

We had a good walk through the village of Graupen and partly up the Wilhelmshöhe, but, as Alfred had to leave for Wien, we cut it short. Home at nine o’clock, to bed in good time.


Editor’s note: Hermann’s mention of “Apologetes” is probably a reference to the Christliche Apologete und Haus und Herd, a German-language weekly published by the Methodist Book Concern. The title roughly translates to the Christian Defender and House and Hearth

Teplits, June 12, 1909

We arose this morning in this old, but very comfortable hotel. Right in the front of our window is the market place and the stand for the cabs, and so we have plenty to look at whenever we wish to pass time in looking. The clock on the Rathaus chimes the hours and the quarters in a very pretty fashion.

Teplitz marketplace.

Alfred called, and together we went to Mariaschein after dinner. I called for my mail here which has been at the P.O. since May 28th. It’s your letter of May 17th and contains the news of Wiebusch’s death, also about the prospects of St. Peter’s German Church job. I have written to Dresden, which is only two hours ride from here, to forward my mail and so I hope to hear more about this in a day or two.

So you are getting to be quite a gardener, well, this is the first step to domestic bliss. News about Ton-time received and noted. Check signed and sent on to Naples. Glad to hear of your being taken care of by the family, sorry to hear of the illness of your youngest, as Becker puts it, and not astonished that Rags still goes out on a spree—he is too old to learn by this time.

At Mariaschein, which is reached by rail in 10 minutes, cousin Johann Fritsch, with some of his and Robert’s little ones, received us at the depot and took us to the home. They have a paper bag factory, and they live right near it. So does cousin Minna, who lives in one of the houses, which they fitted up for her. It is an ideal German life. A nice large garden with a tenpin alley and garden house. Fine orchard.

We were received with much love, and they told us that they had counted on keeping us during our stay. We took coffee with Minna, who knows the whole family history, and supper with Robert, who has some fine children. The oldest is with him in the factory.

Home at about nine o’clock.

Editor’s note: Henry Wiebusch’s obituary. 

Wiebusch obit

Henry Wiebusch’s obituary, St. Louis Post-Dispatch, 14 May 1909.


Teplitz, June 11, 1909

We arose at 5:30 prepared for our trip to Teplitz. Alfred is going along, and he met us at 7 o’clock at the hotel. We all drove over to the Nordbahnhof [north railway station] and got a nice compartment to ourselves. We enjoyed the trip very much as it had turned cooler. We took table d’hote in the dining car and arrived at Aussig about five o’clock.

Here we had to change cars and, in New Aussig, Alfred looked out of the window and saw Cousin Minna Fritsch who had come to meet us. In Mariaschein, Cousin Johann was at the depot, and, at 6 o’clock, we arrived at Teplitz and took the bus for the hotel—Altes Rathaus, a very nice old house and good eating, too. We took Alfred and Minna to the depot as they go back to Mariaschein where the family lives.

To bed in good time. We are all very happy to change to a quiet town. All send love.


Scenes from Teplitz-Schönau [now Teplice in the Czech Republic].

Wien, June 10, 1909

This is a holiday called ‘‘Frohnleichnahm,” and Emily and I arose at 5:30 and, without breakfast, we hastened over to the Stephansplace. On the way we bought a few Brodchen and two apples. The streets around the Stephans Kirche have been closed by a cordon of police to the general public, but our cards admitted us easily and we sat down and awaited the coming of the Emperor.

Corpus Christi procession. Vienna, June 10, 1909.

Punctually at 7 o’clock, a company of cavalry appeared, followed by four court trumpeters, then six carriages drawn by six horses, each in which the courtiers of the grand dukes had seats. All were dressed in gala uniform and it was a grand picture.

Then followed the Court Carriages with the Grand Dukes, and this was followed by a fine Gold Carriage drawn by eight pure white horses in which sat the good old Emperor Franz Joseph and the successor to the throne, his brother’s oldest son. The carriage was surrounded by his adjudant, six pages, two body guards and cavalry.

Corpus Christi procession. Vienna, June 10, 1909.

On account of this being a religious procession, there was no cheering but a general waving of handkerchiefs. The carriages drew up before the Church door, and the occupants entered the church where the service was held while we sat in patience and waited. Meanwhile we had plenty to look at.

Some men brought loads of grass and made a path on the street for the procession to walk on. In half an hour, about the head of the process, a number of monks appeared. These were followed by Capucini, Franciscans, Dominicans/Redemptorists and, after these, the different parishes of Wien represented each by two to four Banners and three to eight or nine priests (according to the size of the parish)—each one dressed in rich garments and carrying a crucifix. There were about 32 parishes represented.

These were followed by students of a theological school, the Magistrate and council of Wien, the singers of St. Stephans, Archbishops cabinet, Court Keepers of livery court singers, court pages, chamberlains, Grand Council Knights of the different orders, such as the “Golden Voiess,” Franz Joseph orden, etc. His eminence the Cardinal walked under a baldachin carrying the holiest, and he again was surrounded by assistants and guards.

This was followed by His majesty the Emperor on foot. The old gentleman looked spry and pleasant, and now followed the grand dukes, princes, Masters of Ceremony, etc., all on foot and in their different uniforms, Magyars, Hungarians, Bosniens, etc. The Austrian body guard and the Hungarian body guard and a company of infantry.

Corpus Christi procession. Vienna, June 10, 1909.

On the road, at three points the “Evangelium” was read. The road was lined by orphan children and societies. It took about half an hour before the head of the procession appeared again and entered the church to finish the service. Again we saw the old Emp. and some of his generals, also the Mayor of Wien, all looking pretty well tired from the long walk through the streets.

After the service was finished, the carriages drew up and the “Herrschaften” entered and drove off. An hour afterwards, the stands and been removed, and the street cleaned and opened to the public. Everything was done in such a neat and precise manner, no crowding around the procession, etc.

We found Mama at home sleeping peacefully on the sopha [sic]. In the evening, we all went to a garden for supper and a concert and took affectionate farewell of each other.

Editor’s note: Brodchen is a bun. Frohnleichnahm is the Feast of Corpus Christi.

Wien, June 9, 1909

Cousin Mrs. Fritsch called on us in the morning and, together with Tante K., we went sight seeing. We landed at the Imperial Art History Museum, which contains the extensive art collections of the Imperial House.

Imperial Court Museum of Art History

The exterior of this building, as well as that of the Natural History Museum, is lavishly adorned with sculpture. The interior is beautifully decorated in colored marble and stucco. On the middle landing of the staircase in Canoca’s marble group of the “Victory of Theseus Over the Centaur,” originally intended by Napoleon I for Milan.

The first rooms which we passed through contained Sarcophagi and sculptures of the 13th, 19th and 26th Dynasty, also coffins, mummies and sculptures and canopy, mummy coverings fruits, amulets, etc., from ancient Egyptian tombs.

In other rooms are collections of Antiquities of the Greek, Etruscan and Roman periods and collections of coins and medals. The collections of Industrial Art, one of the most important of its kind, embraces the productions of the industrial art of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance and has come to the Hapsburg house from the Burgundian secession by the marriage of Maximillian in 1477.

It being such an old collection, you may understand its value and size. It has such a variety of articles that I cannot possibly mention them them all. Articles of ivory, bronze, boxwood, etc., Burgundian Sacredotal Vestments of the 15th century, goldsmiths work and works in rock, crystal, agate, etc. An iron cabinet richly inlaid with gold made in Vienna in 1567. Majolica ware, manuscripts of the middles ages.

The collection of Weapons and Armour is very fine, too, so is one of Paintings. Among them, I noticed one by Alexander Golz, “Christ and the Women” of which we have a picture in the office, also fine pictures by Rembrandt, Rubens, Jan Van Eyck, etc.

There is one large picture of the “Landtag of Warsaw in 1773” by Matejko which is especially fine. But we had to hurry through, and you cannot get but a glimpse of such a magnificent collection in two hours.

We lunched and went shopping. In the evening, I went by lonely self to the Hof Opera House to hear the “Meistersinger of Nurnberg” by Richard Wagner. It lasted from 7 o’clock to 12 o’clock, and I was sorry that you could not be with me to enjoy it.

Vienna Opera House

I forgot to mention to you that we concluded to stay over another day in order that we may witness the procession to-morrow, and I have bought tickets for a stand on Stephansplace where we can see it.

Wien, June 8, 1909

We arose early as Cousin Fritsch called at 9 to take us to the Kahlenberg. On our way there, we passed, among other handsome buildings, the imposing Reichsratsgebäude (Parliament) built in 1883 in Greek Style. The Chamber of Deputias on one side and the Upper House on the other form two independent buildings adorned with marble statues and bas reliefs and crowned at the corners with bronze quadrigal. The portico borne by columns is surmounted by a pediment group representing the “Granting of the Constitution.”

Austrian Parliament building, Vienna.

Between the broad approaches leading to the portico is the imposing Minerva Fountain, 50 feet high, crowned a colossal figure of the old girl with a Nike in the left hand. Below are allegorical groups of children. The approaches again are flanked by bronze groups of horse tamers and, at the top, eight statues of Roman and Greek Sistorians. A wonderful building.

We ascended the Kahlenberg, which is 1400 feet high, by a “Zahuradbahn” (cog wheel or rack and pinion system) and reached the top in one-half hour, passing through vineyards and fine woods. We then climbed some 100 steps up to the top of the Stefaniewarts, or view tower, and had a fine view of Vienna, the Danube and environs also of the Alps.

At a restaurant, we lunched and went into the little church which is connected with the village. Returning home, I skipped off by myself to see Cooks, and from there I went into the Augustiner Kirche, where I saw the beautiful marble monument of Maria Christina, daughter of Emp. Maria Theresia who died in 1792. It is by Canova and consists of a fine Pyramid into the opening of which Virtue steps with an urn.

In the Chapel of St. George I saw the monument of Emp. Leopold II who died in 1792, this is of marble. I also passed through the Loretto Chapel where the hearts of all the Emperors and Empresses are preserved since the founding of the Imperial Burial vaults in the Capuchin Church.

Passing along I came to the Joseph Platz and saw the fine bronze equestrian statue of Emp. Joseph II; also to the Michaeler Platz with the old Hofburg. From here I had a fine view of the Hercules groups and the two fine fountains. I looked in at the Church of St. Michael erected in 1219 and altered in the 17th and 18th century. Over the High Altar is an immense group representing the Fall of the Angels, made in stucco. Many tombstones of the 16th to the 18th century are in this church.

Home for supper at the restaurant with Aunt Kinsky and Alfred. After supper, we went to see the Hochstrahl Brunnen (fountain) play. It was illuminated in various colors, and it made a beautiful sight. At the same time a band played, and they kept this up until 10:30 p.m. They are a wonderful set, these Viennese, and they know “How to do things.”

Right in this Schwarzenberg Place is a Public Toilet for men and another one for women. It is under the ground, right in the center of the place. A flight of stairs lined with pretty tiling leads down to it, and the place itself is fitted up with fancy tiling, the woodwork finished in mahogany, art glass in brass and all the latest sanitary arrangements. Above these rooms, on the surface, is a pretty garden, with flowers and shrubs surrounding the skylights, which given the light for below. The funniest part here, as well as in other places, is that a woman attends to the place for men as well as women.

Vienna, Fountain of Light
[Editor’s note: this is not the fountain Hermann refers to above.]

Wien, June 7, 1909

Home all morning. After dinner, Tante K. and Cousin Fritsch called, and we went to the Stadt Park where we took coffee in the Kursalon, a very pretty restaurant. We went home by way of the pretty walk along Wienr Fluss, which is laid out beautifully.

Mama and Tante K and I went home as Mama was very tired. Later, I met the crowd in the Rathaus Keller for supper. This is in the basement of the Rathaus and is handsomely fitted up with paintings, etc. (mostly etc.). We were shown the Rathstube where the mayor and his council eat—sometimes—drink and with a special fine inlaid chair for the mayor. Home late and tired.

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Schönbrunn Palace Garden

Wien, June 6, 1909


Austrian Parliament building, Vienna.

This being Sunday, Alfred and I just took a walk around the Ring, the Kartner Ring, and the Schwarzenberg Platz. Here is an equestrian statue of Prince Schwarzenberg, the victorious leader of the allies in 1813 and 1814. We also had a view of the Hochstrahlbrunnen, which throws a jet 100 feet high.

We went to the church of St. Peter, which has a handsome dome and was founded by Bishop Arno of Salzburg in 790. It has a very pretty altar piece, richly gilded, representing St. Nepomuck as he is thrown into the river. The pulpit is covered with rich gilt carving, and, on the outside wall, is a fine bas relief representing Karl de Grosse as the founder of the church.

On the “Gaben,” we saw the Trinity Column, a confused group of figures among the clouds, erected by order of Emp. Leopold I in 1693 in memory of the cessation of the plague in 1679, and it is called the Post Column.

In the afternoon we stayed at home and spent the evening with Cousin Fritsch and her children, Franz, Rosa and Arthur. Franz is Mechanical Engineer and Arthur is still attending school. We had a very nice evening together and went home pretty late.


Vienna Academy of Fine Arts.

Wien, June 5, 1909

Dear Chas,

Tante K. called this morning, and she and Emily went shopping and bought the material for a hat which Tante Kinski is going to trim for her. Mama and I went to town and bought some nice Meerschaum Pipes, which are very reasonable here. On our return, we called at the “Koenig von Ungarn” hotel to see Mrs. Cooper but did not find her in.

Vienna Life: Guards in front of the Castle Gate [rough translation].

In the afternoon, Tante K came over to us to trim the hat, and Emily and Alfred and Rosa went to the Opera “Traviata,” while Mama, Tante, Mrs. Cooper and I went to the Volksgarten Restaurant to listen to a concert and to eat our supper. Emily and Alfred joined us late in the evening, and we all went home tired.

Music Hall in the City Park.

Wien, 4 June 1909

Time flies and Wien certainly is the place to make you feel as if you would like to live there. Cousin (Mrs.) Fritsch called at 10 o’clock, and we took the car to the Ring Strasse.

This wonderful street is 185 feet wide and, together with the Quai, encircles the inner city. It was laid out in 1857, mainly on the site of the old ramparts. From the Aspern Bridge to the end of the Schotten Ring, it is two miles in length and is considered, architecturally, one of the finest streets in Europe.

Austrian Parliament Building at Ring Boulevard.

I cannot possibly mention all the magnificent buildings which we saw on this grand street. The Imperial Opera House erected in 1861 in Renaissance style is one of them; it has seats for 2270 persons. The University is another; it is a vast quadrangular structure and cost three million dollars to build.

We next visited the “Votiv Kirche,” erected in 1856 to 1879 in memory of the present Emperor’s escape from assassination in 1853. The interior is lavishly enriched with gilding and painting and adorned with 78 stained glass windows. I regret that I did not have the time to study these beautiful windows, but there is too much to be seen in this wonderful city. The Rathaus, built in 1873, took ten years to build and cost five million dollars. It is enriched with statues and has a stately tower 320 feet high.


Viennese Types: Flowers.

The windows and balconies are filled with pretty flowers. I also observed that many of the (electric) lampposts have baskets filled with flowers. The Mayor of the city is a great lover of flowers, and the city public buildings are adorned with them.

We took our Fruhschoppen at the Lowenbrau Restaurant and, after that, went to the Volksgarten. Here in a quiet spot surrounded by walls of evergreen and sitting on a Thronsessel is a beautiful statue of Empress Elizabeth, who was assassinated in Italy about eight years ago. She was a great favorite with the people. In another spot is the sitting figure of the poet Grillparzer, with scenes from his works in relief, also Sappho Medea, Hero and Leander, etc. The trees are in full bloom, the acacia is especially fragrant, and the birds are singing. I saw an old gentlemen feed an “Amsel”—she picked the crumbs from his fingers.

We now went to the Imperial Hofburg residence of the Austrian Princess since the 13th century. On the Burg Platz, we saw the bronze equestrian statues of Prinz Eugen and Archduke Charles, the former victor over the Turks and the latter over Napoleon. Passing through the Burgter, we entered the inner court and witnessed the changing of the guard, which is quite an imposing sight and is accompanied by military music.

We took our dinner at the Volksgarten Restaurant (name of Seidel). Car to Schonbrunn, the summer residence of the emperor. It has 1441 apartments. Napoleon had his residence here in 1805 and 1809, and his son, the duke of Reichstadt afterwards (1832), died in the room once occupied by his father.

Imperial and Royal Schönbrunn Palace.

The extensive garden is laid out in the French style of the 18th century and is a wonderful sight. The large trees are trimmed in a manner to form immense green walls with arched passages and niches in which are 32 marble statues. Beautiful fountains and a colonnade called the Gloriette, which is situated on a hill 777 feet high, form a picture never to be forgotten.

To the left of the main avenue is an old Roman Ruin, an obelisque and the Schoene Brunnen (beautiful fountain), a large menagerie or zoo, and last, but not least, a large Palm House in which we spent some time.

As it began to rain, we took a car for home and spent the evening in the rooms of Tante Kinski who played the piano for us. She is a very accomplished player, and we enjoyed it immensely.

The Wiener life is very interesting, and we have had some funny experiences with car conductors, waiters, and flower girls (mostly 50 to 60 years old). We entered a car before it was coupled to the rear car, and do you know the motorman wouldn’t budge until we got out again. Then he moved the car about one foot to join it to the rear one, and we could then enter again. No standing or strap hanging inside of the car, only seven on the rear platform allowed to stand, etc.

Well, I must close, more next time. I stayed home this Monday (7th) morning to write this. We expect to stay until Friday a.m., as there is a big turn out of Emperor, Princes, nobility and church dignitaries on Thursday.

With much love from your dad.

Editor’s note: Roughly translated, Fruhschoppen is a social morning drink.

Wien, June 3, 1909

At 10 o’clock, Tante Kinski called with her cousin Fritsch’s daughter, Rosa, a pretty “Wiener Kind” of 24 years, and she and Emily went downtown “shopping.” Tanta Kinski advised us to go to an Exposition of articles in memory of the battle of Aspern 1809 in which Erzherzog Karl gained a victory over Napoleon, the first one gained by any one over the mighty Emperor.

Here we saw the grand old carriage which was used by Napoleon when he was crowned as Emperor in 1805, and later on this same carriage was used by Kaiserin Elizabeth when she was married to Franz Josef, the present Emperor of Austria.

Napoleon’s carriage, 1905, at Vienna Exposition, 1909.

Tante showed us a large painting by Kraft of the battle of Aspern, which as been brought from the Invaliden haus. It occupies the space of the entire wall and is very fine. Besides this we saw old uniforms, Napoleon’s hat, the order of Maria Theresia (a beautiful star of diamonds with a maltese cross in the center and many other interesting relics of the time of Napoleon, also pictures of his marriage to the Austrian Princess and articles of her toilet, etc.

Here we wrote a postal, which I hope has been received by you. In the evening, we were joined by Alfred, your cousin, and we all went to the Prater, the largest Public Park of Vienna. Formerly used as a “Chasse” (hunting ground) by the Imperial Family, but given to the city in 1776 by Emp. Joseph II.

The part of it known as the Volks or Wurztle Prater is the favorite haunt of the humbler classes, especially on Sunday and holiday afternoons, and abounds in suitable attractions. We took our supper in one of the many restaurants, and, after that, the girls went sightseeing.

At about 10 o’clock, we decided to go home, but looking at some of the attractions such as Merry Go Round, Scenic Railway, etc., took us nearly an hour. All these shows are fitted up in most gorgeous style and the “Cryers” try their best to induce you to enter. It reminded me of our Midway at the World’s Fair, but much larger. Tante called our attention to attractions which she had enjoyed when a child and which have been in “full swing” ever since, especially the Wurstle (Marionettes Theatre or Buffoon).

Vienna, the People’s Amusement Park. [Editor’s note: Handwritten note is illegible]

The Haupt Allee, or principal avenue, with a quadruple row of fine chestnut trees traverses the so-called Noble Prater, 2.5 miles in length. It is a fashionable resort in spring when many fine horses, elegant toilettes and handsome faces will be observed. Chief gala days are Easter Sunday and 1st of May.

Wien [Vienna], June 2, 1909

My dear Boy:

We arrived early this morning and were welcomed in the breakfast room by Aunt Kinski. She took us to the Stephens Kirche or Cathedral, the most important edifice in Vienna.

Vienna, St. Stephen’s Cathedral

The west facade with the beautiful Riesenter (or Giants door) was erected in 1230 in the old Romanesque style. Other parts and the south tower, which is 448 feet high, as well as the unfinished north tower were added in 1359 and 1450, each taking about 60 years to be built. The entire building is covered with fine sculpture and looks grand. The interior is very gloomy, the nave is almost 100 feet high, and the vaulting is borne by 18 massive pillars, adorned with upwards of 100 statues. Numerous altars enhance the picturesque appearance of the interior.

The late gothic pulpit has the statues of four fathers of the church, and, under the stairs, the figure of the Master looking through a window. There are a few 14th century memorial windows, but the majority are modern and contain very fine figures. In several of them, the figure or bust picture of the departed one is introduced.

In front of the steps to the vestry is a stone which closes the entrance to the old burial vault of the sovereigns of Austria, not used, however, for the past 200 years. In the Apostelcher is the sarcophagus of Emperor Frederick III (died 1403), a very elaborate work in red and white marble surrounded by 32 coats of arms. In eight sections below are scenes from the history of Wiener Neustadt [a city south of Wien].

There is also in this church a triumphal arch of red marble erected in 1894 to commemorate the relief of Vienna from the Turkish besiegers in 1683. It is a fine work of art with numerous figures and reliefs in Carrara marble.

On the Stephaus platz, in front of the Equitable Insurance Building, is the Stock in Eisen, a stump of a tree full of nails driven by apprentices of the locksmith trade for good luck when they left the city to complete their knowledge of the trade in foreign countries. The stump is secured with an iron hoop and lock bearing the date of 1575.

I almost forgot to mention that the church was filled with girls in white dresses with a wreath in their hair and boys dressed in black who come to the church to receive the “Firming” or confirmation of their joining the Catholic Church, which ceremony is performed by the Archbishop. I read in the paper that, since Pentecost Sunday, 3000 children have received the “Firming” in this church. They drive up to the door in carriages decorated with flowers, which is a very pretty sight.

From here we went back by way of the Stadtpark, which is a favorite resort in summer and contains many statues and monuments of painters, composers and allegorical figures. We crossed the Wiener Fluss (river), which runs in a bed made of concrete and passed the Invalides Haus where Tante lives and home for dinner.

Life In Vienna, the City Park

In the afternoon Tante called with Mrs. Fritsch, the widow of Mama’s oldest cousin, Franz, and, together with Alfred Kinski, we took a car to Schoenbrunn and went into the Dreher Park, where we listened to a fine concert given by the Schubert bund, a society of about 200 men singers, directed by the well known composer Prof. Haus Wagner.

It was grand, in fact, the best Mannerchor which it has ever been my pleasure to hear. They took position in a covered open-air stage, and, in the garden, were seated thousands of men and women eating and drinking, but whenever a new number was announced everything was quiet. In between the songs, an orchestra lead by Johann Muller (another Vienna musical celebrity) dispersed beautiful music by well-known composers.

We left before the finish and came home at midnight.

Salzburg, Tuesday, June 1, 1909

Another month has passed and again we have to pack up to move on, but before going we decided that we must see that grand old stronghold of the Archbishops of long ago, the Hohen-Salzburg. A cable R.R. ascending at a gradient of 58% took us up and through the wall of the fortress by a tunnel to the courtyard.

A guide took us up the winding staircase to the Rockturn, where the barbarous instruments of torture and the criminal dungeons are to be seen and still higher to the View Tower, 560 feet above the town. From here, we had a fine view of the town, and we also heard the bells play and we then hastened into the old palace to hear the mechanical organ play.

From here we passed into the Furstenzimmer (Prince’s Rooms), which were once furnished in great splendor as the residence of the former sovereigns of the country. Traces of this splendor are still to be seen in the beautiful, delicate gilt carvings and also in the richly carved ceilings, but above all in the beautiful and unique Majolica stove, which is known as the most wonderful masterpiece of Gothic ceramic art made in the 15th century.

The Archbishop Leonhard, an energetic man of peasant origin, did most of the building. He carried a turnip in his armorial bearings. We hastened home and caught the train at 1 o’clock for Wien. We decided not to stop at Linz to go down the Donan as this would take another day, and Mama is anxious to see the mail which is waiting us at Wein, as she is homesick to hear from her boy. We had very pleasant company, especially a Catholic Priest who explained many interesting points of view and asked many questions about America.

I find that you win the hearts of the Germans by bowing to them as you enter the compartment and asking them question. We also had a “Commis voyageur” drummer with us and I found him like our boys, “Full of blow.”

We had checked our four suitcases as a trial, but it cost $1.20, and I lost instead of gaining by the transaction, and, at the depot in Wien, we had to wait until every piece of baggage had been carried out of the car before our porter would touch ours.

At the hotel, which is within two blocks of the “Invalidenhaus” where Tante Kinski lives, we found your two letters and card from Tante Dorette for Emily and letter from her for us, also letter from Mrs. Hunt and a card from Grace. We had lost each other, and somehow my mail does not reach her. I shall send your letter to her at Brussells.

This is a nice quiet hotel and we can eat across the street very good and very cheap. I must close with love from all the relatives, including Cousin Fritsch and her daughter Rosa, whom you missed to see. She is the widow of Joseph, oldest brother of the Fritsches.

Mama and Emily are well and happy, so is your Dad.

Editor’s note: Commis voyageur roughly translates to “traveling salesman.” And if you’re wondering why the Archbishop (Leonhard von Keutschach, ca 1442—1519) was so fond of turnips—legend has it that his uncle once hit him on the head with a turnip to “get some sense” into him. 

The Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach’s coat of arms. (Image courtesy of the British Museum)