Venezia, Venerdi [Friday], April 30th.

The Statue of Dante Alighieri, in Piazza Santa Croce, was sculpted by Enrico Pazzi, 1865.

We have decided to leave for Venice to-day, and so we made a farewell call on Mrs. Spears at her hotel, took lunch at 12:30, and train at 2:45. The facchino put us all into one compartment, and we thought that we were settled for good until we came to Bologna, when we discovered that the cars were to be detached from the train, and we had quite a scramble to get our baggage out and in to the Venice Train.

We had a fine view of the valleys and ravines of the Apennines and of the rich plains of Tuscany. The vegetation seemed much more advanced, and the green fields with the vines planted at stated distances were very restful to the eye.

We passed through at least thirty tunnels, the train gradually creeping up and down a mountain. I had written to Mrs. Conte that I would put a handkerchief around my umbrella, and so her son easily recognized me and took us to a Gondola.


Panorama of Venice with a gondola.

Crossing the Grand Canal, we entered a smaller one and landed right in front of the house! It costs only 1 cent to be ferried across the Canal to where we can reach St. Marcs in a few minutes. We are right around the corner from Salviati.

We were shown into a large chamber, stone (cement) floor. The building is an old patrician residence with the coat of arms over the door and a good view of the quaint old houses with their tile roofs. We slept fine and were ready to go at 10 o’clock in the morning of  [Editor’s note: text ends here].

Florence, Giovedi [Thursday], April 29, 1909


Church of Orsanmichele, Florence.

Mama and Emily went to see Mrs. Morris, so Grace, Miss M. and I started sight seeing. We happened to drop in S. Trinitat, which is one of the oldest churches in the city. The interior was restored in 1884 and has some very nice frescoes and altars, but by this time they begin to “Look all alike to me.”

From here we went to the Piazza Della Signoria, which, with the Palazzo Vecchio and the Loggia del Lanzi, once the Forum of the Republic, was once the scene of its popular assemblies and tumults, its festivals and its executions, and is still an important center of business and pleasure.

We visited the Vecchio Palace, a castle-like building. The outer court has a large basin of porphyry marble with a boy with a fish as a fountain figure. Upstairs is a Great Hall constructed in 1495 for the Great Council of the city. In 1503, Leonardo de Vinci and Michael Angelo were commissioned to decorate this hall with frescoes from Florentine history, but it is now decorated with frescoes by Vasari and his pupils, with tapestry and six groups of statues of the labors of Hercules by Rossi.

Next we went into the Saladei Dugento, which is now used as the meeting place of the municipal council. The Loggia dei Lanzi, a magnificent open hall, was designed for solemn ceremonies, which it might be desirable to perform before the people. It contains statues of Faith, Hope, Charity, Temperance, and Fortitude.

Strolling along the very interesting narrow streets, constantly dodging automobiles and other vehicles, as the sidewalk is too small to hold more than one or two pedestrians walking aside of each other, we came to the church of Santa Croce, the largest church belonging to any of the mendicants orders (Franciscans).

To give you an idea of its size, I may mention that the center nave is 374 feet long x 63 feet high and produces an impressive effect, which is much enhanced by its numerous monuments of celebrated men. This church may be called the “Pantheon of Florence.” Here is the Tomb of Michael Angelo, a monument of Dante, another one to the composer Cherubini, Rossine, and others. There is a beautiful marble pulpit in this church, which is pronounced the most beautiful pulpit in Italy.

We next passed the Cr. S. Michele Church to which we were attracted by the statues which are placed in niches on the exterior of the walls. They were given by the twelve guilds of Florence. The interior, which is very dark, has some fine windows made in the 13th century. There is a fine Tabernacle in this church, made of marble and precious stones, completed in 1359.

In the afternoon, we decided to go to the Boboli Garden, which is in the rear of the Pitti Palace. While standing on a corner, a fellow tried to pick Emily’s pocket, and she struck at his arm, he looked so very innocent that we “Let it pass,” as a good joke.

On the way to the garden, we enjoyed a walk along the Arno River, and we had a fine view of the quaint buildings along the river front. We then crossed the Vecchio Bridge, consisting of three arches, and which is covered and has shops on either side, which have belonged to the goldsmiths since the fourteenth century. In the center is a bronze bust of Benvenuto Celline, sculptor and goldsmith in 1550.

The Boboli Garden extends in terraces up the hill in back of the Pitti Palace. It was laid out in 1550 under Cosimo I and commands a succession of charming views of Florence. The long walks are bordered with evergreens, some 15 feet in height and give a most delightful shade. Vases and statues are in many places, and the entire effect is different from anything I have ever seen.

We first ascended to the amphi-theatre, an open space at the back of the palace, enclosed by oak hedges and rows of seats, which was formerly used for festivities of the court. Steep paths brought us to the fountain of Neptune, with the old fellow on top and hundreds of gold fish in the basin. We enjoyed the cool shaded walks very much and returned in time for dinner. All tired and glad to get to bed.


Brothers of the Confraternity of the Mercy of Florence carrying a sick person.

Florence, Wednesday, April 28th

We hired a cab, and I took Mama and Emily to Mrs. Morris. While they stayed with her, I went to the San Marco, an old monastic church founded in 1290. Adjacent to the church is the Monastery of San Marco, once far famed, to which was suppressed in 1869. It was decorated with charming frescoes by Fra Giovanni da Fiesole [Editor’s note: also known as Fra Angelico], some time in 1425, which are unrivalled to this day in their portrayal of profound piety.

You may remember having bought some fine postal cards of these, which are now in the book in the Show Room. The powerful preacher, Savonarola, once lived here, and we were shown his cell with desk. He was burned at the stake on the piazza Signoria in 1498. The cloisters are richly frescoed, and the entire building is very interesting as it shows how these old monks lived many hundred years ago. In one of the cells, we saw a bronze bust of Savonarola and a copy of an old picture representing his execution, autographs and his crucifix.

After calling for Mama and Emily, we again set forth for Medici Chapel and landed in the Chapel of the Princes, the burial chapel of the grand dukes of the Medici family. It is octagonal in form and gorgeously decorated with marble and valuable mosaics in stone. In six niches are the granite sarcophagi of the princes, and on the clado round the chapel are placed the armorial bearings of 16 Tuscan towns in exquisite stone mosaics. A sum of over four million dollars was expended by the Medici family on the construction and decoration of this chapel. A “dead” capital it seems to me. The new sacristy built by Michael Angelo contains the statues of “Day & Night” and “Evening & Dawn,” of which many photos can be seen in the Florence shops.


Courtyard of the Podesta Palace, Florence.

From here, we went to the Palazzo del Podesta commonly known as Il Bargello, which contains the National Museum. Here we saw a picturesque court, embellished with coats of arms, and forming with its massive colonnades, a fine flight of steps and fine picture of the spirit of the 14th century.

We enjoyed the many statues, among them many of Michael Angelo. It is impossible to describe the fine collections of old bells cast in 1249, the fine tapestry, the enamels and fine goldsmith work, the handsome ecclesiastical vestments and hand embroideries, shields, weapons, carvings in ivory, bronzes of the 15th century, glazed terra cottas, works in marble, medals, coins and old manuscripts with hand painted capitals and pictures.

At the P.O. we received your nice letter of the 14th, which did not reach me before because it had only a 2¢ stamp on it., (see enclosure for proof) also the Globe and the P.D. containing election news, which letter will be answered by mama. You do not mention anything about your Auto!!

After lunch, we five took a car ride to Fiesole and enjoyed it more because a slight shower had laid the dust. We went into a little shop and bought some bags crocheted out of straw, very pretty.

Home for dinner and, as I am finishing this letter with Mother in bed and Emily sewing, I feel glad to know that I have caught up again. We appreciate your letters very much as we know how hard it is for you to “Take your pen in your hand.” We are well and happy and enjoying ourselves. We leave for Venice on Friday, and I have engaged a pension with a Methodist preacher whose daughter will serve us as guide. Good night. Love to all,



The winter garden of the Hotel Helvetia, Florence.

Florence, Tuesday, April 27th


Panorama of Florence, Italy

We arrived at 14:35, and we were taken to this hotel, which is a very good one. After washing up, we went to Cooks, and I found there a letter from Prof. Stroeter inviting us to make his house our home while in Wernigerode. I bought some pretty white lilacs for Mama, and after that went to the P.O. After dinner, we enjoyed the concert, which they give every night in the Smoking Room of the Hotel.

This morning we hired a cab by the hour, and we took Mama to a Mrs. Morris and, while she was there, I went to call on Mrs. Spear, the sister of Tante Henry Nuelsen, who is here on a visit. She invited us to take a ride with her to Fiersole in the afternoon.

Florence, Santa Maria del Fiore.

We then went to look at the Cathedral called the S. Maria del Fiore from the lily, which figures in the arms of Florence. It was erected in 1296 and consecrated in 1496. The present façade is modern and was erected in 1875 and finished 12 years later.

Here I saw the first good stained glass windows. The interior is very impressive owing to its grand dimensions, but the windows, for some reason, are so dark that you cannot recognize the subjects. The exterior is extremely rich, an effect being produced by slabs of inlaid marble of different colors. The Campanil or Bell Tower is a wonderful piece of architecture characterizing Power and Beauty.

We next visited the Battistero, where all children born in Florence are baptized. It has three bronze doors made in the 14th and 15th century, which are marvels of Art. They show in relief scenes from the Bible. It took six years to make one of these doors.

In hunting for the Medici Chapel, we got into the San Lorenzo Church, one of the most ancient churches in Italy, being founded in 394. We came across Grace and Miss Moran on our way to lunch, and together we went to “Gambrinus” hall where we enjoyed ham sandwiches and Munchner.

We then strolled to the Pitti Palace, which was not open, but a silver offering opened the doors wide, and we had the privilege of a special guide. This imposing building was begun about 1440 by Luca Faucelli, an opponent of the Medici. It became the residence of the reigning sovereign in 1550 and is now the residence of the king when he is in Florence.

The royal apartments are sumptuously furnished, and the girls opened their eyes when they beheld all this splendor. The Ball Room, the Dining Room, with a table large enough to seat sixty, the King’s private apartments, with a fine picture of the Madonna, the Queen’s Throne Room, etc., all contained gems of Art. From the windows in the Banquetting Room, we had a fine view of the palace court and the amphitheatre.

Returning, we passed over the arched bridge called Ponte Vecchio, which is flanked by shops which have belonged to the goldsmiths since the 14th century.

In the afternoon at 4, Mrs. Spears called for us, and we took a ride to Fiesole from where we had a fine view of Florence and the surrounding country. Early to bed, dead tired!


Postcard to Miss Josephine Hunt, 4/27/09.

Florence, Monday, April 26th

We arose at 6 o’clock and, at 8, the “Facchino” called for our grips and found us a nice place in the train. We also had good company, a young man and his mother from California, who were fellow passengers on the Barbarossa, Grace and Miss M. came, too, and got into the car before us. It was a very pleasant ride of about 5 1/2 hours, and we landed on time.

I had written to the “Helvetia Hotel,” and it feels good to get into a nice hotel for a change again. We had to pay on $23.00, including tips, for our six-day stay in the Pension of Miss Hall in Rome, and I have written to another one in Venice, where Miss Hall says a young lady will act as our guide.

We all went to the hotel and got nice rooms. After a good wash, we took a look around and were glad to find the streets less noisy and cleaner and nicer all around. A good dinner and a concert in the Smoking Room, and we were all ready to go to bed.


Dining room at the Hotel Helvetia, Florence.

Oh yes, of course we rushed to Cook’s, and I received your letter of March 31st forwarded from Capri, and at the P.O., I received Becker’s letter of the 15th in which he speaks of one you wrote on the 13th, and which I hope to get to-morrow. Also received the Post Dispatch, April 11th, and looked at it, but did not read much, as we are kept so busy.

Tell Brother Becker many thanks for letter, which I will answer by a Postal as he sees all of my letters to you, I suppose. Have an invitation from Prof. Stroeter to stay with them.

And now, good night, I expect a busy day to-morrow. Hope to hear all about your Auto. of which Brother B. writes. All send love, Grace says she is true to you.



Billiards salon and bar at the Hotel Helvetia, Florence.

Rome, Sunday, April 25th


Rome. Church of the Trinity of the Mountains above the Spanish steps.

Another week has passed, time flies. I arose in good time to go to that new church of St. Joachin, built by Leo XIII, which contains some fine modern windows and fresco paintings. Here I witnessed a procession. The cars move so slowly that I had to go home in order to be in time for Church service at the Methodist Church. After service, we met Bishop Burt and his wife, who knows Tante Lenchen well and who invited us to visit her at Zurich. She gave Mama a pretty bouquet of lilies of the valley. The dinner is such a slow affair that it was 3 o’clock before we retired for our nap.

We then took the car to the Piazza del Popolo and made the ascent to the Pincio where they had music. There were 100s of fine carriages and thousands of Pedestrians. We had quite a time getting home and had to walk quite a distance to find a car with empty seats. Everybody seemed to be out, and it was a great sight for us.

And so ends our visit to Rome, I have my fill, there is too much of it, and we are all glad to “Move on.”


Rome. Church of St. Peter (interior).

Rome, April 24, 1909

Say it is hard for me to remember from one day to the other, and when I miss a day in writing, I have hard work to collect my thoughts. This is Sunday evening, but I have to write last night’s part.

Well, I went to call for Grace, and together we went to Cooks and ordered our tickets. We then went to the Jesuit Church, which is being richly decorated with crimson and gold drapery and hundreds of candelabres for a festival.

We again went to the Pantheon and the Church of M. Minerva and found both closed. In the afternoon, we took a cab, and, after some shopping, we drove by way of the Piazza Quirinal, where is the palace, formerly a summer residence of the Popes. It is now the royal palace and said to be comfortably furnished.

The fountain in the center of the Piazza is adorned by two colossal groups, which were found lying in the neighborhood among the ruins of the Baths of Constantine. Next, we drove to the Fontana di Frevi, a grand and beautiful fountain which was erected in 1740. It is adorned with fine figures and huge works.

We called at the Post Office and were delighted to receive your letter of the 9th. Glad to hear of the Republican victory. Say, you had better address your envelopes on the typewriter as they do not recognize your J.’s. To show you how much we appreciate your letters, let us tell you that this one was read three times since we received it.

We next drove to the Pizza del Popolo where the three beautiful streets–the Corso, the Barbuino and the Ripetta—meet. It is surrounded by beautiful old churches. In the center rises an Egyptian granite obelisque with hieroglyphics which come from the Gardens of Sallust.

Rome. Piazza del Popolo, seen from the Pincio (architect Giuseppe Valadier, 1762–1839).

We had a fine drive in the Pincio and saw the Borghese Palace, also the drive through the Villa Borghese, which is laid out like Forest Park. On our way home, the driver pointed out to us a monument of Goethe, and the old German looks good to me among all the old Romans.

When we reached home, I bought some oranges and figs, as we feast on fruit while we can get it so fresh and luscious.

Rome, Friday April 23rd

Well, how time does fly! We have not seen half of what you have seen, and we have only one day left to see it. We passed the Hassler last night and thought of you. This morning, I went to look up Grace and her Aunt, and we went to the Scala Sancta which, it is said, was brought to Rome from Jerusalem by the Empress Helena, [and] that it is the staircase of Pilate Palace, which our Lord ascended. It may be ascended only on the knees, so I did not go up. There are, however, so many pilgrims going up and down that they had to encase [the stairs] in wood to keep them from being worn out.

The next place we visited was the Basilica Laberanense. This beautiful church is entered by a bronze door, which was taken from the Forum. In the central nave are immense statues of the twelve Apostles. The Corsini Chapel has a beautiful altar and, in the burial vault below, a marble group representing holding the corpse of Christ. It is called “Pietat” and is by Ant. Montanti.

Under the high altar are deposited the heads of the Apostles Peter and Paul!!! Also a wooden altar, which was used by the first Pope, St. Peter [sic]!! This is the mother church of Christendom.

I enjoyed walking in the pretty cloister of this church, which is one of the most ancient and best preserved monasteries of Rome. It has four sides, each 100 feet long with 25 arches supported by elegant columns of different shapes.

Adjoining the church is the Lateran Palace, which has a fine collection of Mosaics and ancient sculptures, among them the famous portrait statue of Sophocles, the statue of the Ephesian Diana, and sarcophagi, found in 1858 in the Via Latina, an incomplete statues of a slave, also Mosaics of pugilists found in the Thermae (Baths) of Caracalla.

From here, we went into a car to go to the Post Office. They give you tickets for whatever distance you may go varying in price from 2¢ to 4¢, and you have to detain them for an inspector may step in and call for them at anytime. No mail for me and none at Cooks where I inquired.

Home and lunch, after which we decided to go for a ride. We hired a cab for 55¢ an hour and started for the old Appian Way. We passed the Forum and Coliseum, also the Thermae (Baths) of Carcalla. Here 16 centuries ago, 1,600 persons could bathe at the same time. They were decorated with beautiful statues, slabs and columns which were taken to different museums.

To explain the magnificence of these baths, furnishing them with free baths, bread, and circuses, I wish the present King would do the same for his subjects, and we would not meet so many dirty and begging Romans.

We next passed the Tomb of Scipio and the Columbarium, which latter contains the cells which were meant to receive the ashes of many dead. They had the shape of a dove house, from which the name is derived. These again contained many rows of where the urns with the ashes of the dead were inserted.

We then passed through the Porta S. Sebastiano (formerly Appia), built by Aurelian, destroyed during the Gothic wars, and rebuilt by Belisarius and Nurses. A little church to the left is very interesting, it is called Domine Quo Vadis and was built, according to a tradition, in the spot where Jesus met St. Peter, who was going away from Rome to escape martyrdom.

Struck with the vision, St. Peter asked in surprise, “Domine Quo Vadie?” Lord where goest thou? “I go to Rome.” St. Peter took the hint and turned back to suffer.

The next place which we visited are the Catacombs of St Callitus, the most important of all Christian cemeteries. We were shown around by a most comical old monk who spoke a mixture of French and English. He showed us the tombs of several of the first Popes which, when compared with those in St. Peters and other fine Churches, speak plainly of the growing wealth of the later Popes.


A souvenir of the catacombs of St. Calliste.

We each were given a taper for which we had to pay 20¢, and we now descended the steps leading down into the bowels of the earth. These steps were made in the third century. In one place, the room had been enlarged to form a transept with arches, and here was an altar where mass was read.

He asked us whether any of us were Catholics, and when no one spoke up, I told him that I was a Methodist, where upon he whispered in my ear, “You are going to the devil,” and I answered him in French, “Mais en jollie compagnie,” i.e., in good company, pointing to him. He laughed and said, “Mais non” (aber nicht).

Proceeding along the ascent of the Via Appia, we came to the tomb of Cecelia Metella, the conqueror of the Island of Crete, which is a very imposing heap of ruins with an immense Tower, well preserved. Following the road, we have a magnificent view of the Roman Campagna. Many of the old tombs, which are erected along this street, have been partly restored, among them the Tomb of Seneca, the rich and powerful philosopher, who had, at a little distance from this spot, a splendid villa, the temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva, the tombs of Pliny the younger, Licinius, Hilarius, etc.

In some places we saw some of the old paving of this most remarkable road of ancient Rome. We returned by the Military Road, which leads into the new Appian Way and brings us into Rome again.

A most delightful and instructive ride, at 7 o’clock we landed at our pension, and I sat down to write this after supper, or rather dinner, and, with this, I will close this letter. There is so much to be seen here that I am glad that we did not plan to stay longer for it is very tiresome, and I am getting enough of it as it is.

Mama and Emily send their love.We are anxious to get to Florence to get mail, although I feel satisfied that some of it must be here. I will try once more in the evening. Mama stands it fine, and you can see by my description that we are not overdoing it. If I get time at Florence, I will return my Book of Rome.

Editor’s note: “Aber nicht” means “but not.”


Rome, April 22, 1909

Well, we have quite a strenuous day behind us in spite of taking it easy. We started in at 9 o’clock and took a car to the Church of Gesu, from where the Jesuits spread over the old and new world.

The church is beautifully decorated with frescoes by Gauli. One of the inside altars, or chapeks, the one of St. Ignatius, is a beautiful one. It is decorated with columns of precious marble lapis lazuli, and a globe representing the earth, which is supported by angels, consists of a single block of the previous marble and is the largest block ever seen. This is the richest looking altar which I have seen.

We now walked over to the Campidoglio. At the foot of the staircase are two lions in grey granite, which were placed here to replace the two ancient ones which were transferred to the Capitoline Museum. A staircase to the left is for the most part built of marbles taken from the temples of Venus, of Rome and of Quirinus toward the year 1153.

As we descend the Grand Central incline, we see a fine statue in bronze of Rienzi, which was raised in 1887 by the commune of Rome, also an iron cage with a pair of live wolves which are kept in allusion to the origin of Rome.

On the ballustrade that overlooks the city are the colossal statues of Castor and Pollux made of pentetic marble formerly in the city of Pompei. There are also here two fine trophies of arms, the statues of Constantine Augustus and of Constantine Caesar, found on the Quirinal in the Thermae of Constantine. Finally, two stone columns, which, as the old inscription says, are mile stones, surmounted by a metal ball in which were enclosed the ashes of Trajan, which were found on the Via Apia.

Before us we now have the Tabularium where the bronze tablets of the decrees of the Roman Senate were kept, also the laws and the negotiations for peace and alliances. The lower part of this building dates from 670 years before Christ. That’s some age, isn’t it?

From here you can enter the Capitoline Tower built in 1572. Descending a few steps, we sat down to overlook the Foro Romano. It is a wonderful sight and it filled us with awe, when we remembered that, 2000 years ago, this spot, which now shows only ruins, was full of life, and that here was the center of the great Roman Empire and that at one time St. Paul walked the streets of this ancient Rome, chained to a soldier.

I concluded that it would be worth the money to hire a guide who could help me to “Brush up” my knowledge of ancient history and, with him, we descended from the Capitol Hill and set our feet upon the stones of the “Sacra Via” (holy street) and, passing along, we find a small square where, even to this day, the ancient soil has not been dug up. It must be remembered that at one time this was the dumping ground of a later Rome, and that all these ruins of former grandeur had to be uncovered before they were brought to light again.

Before we proceeded, we look at the foundation of the Tabularium, a building of the most ancient style of square blocks dating back 2300 years. The modern Palazzo Senatorio is built over it. A large basement with eight Ionic Columns indicates what is left of the Temple of Saturums, one of the most ancient in Rome.

We next look at the ruins of the Basilica Julia begun by Julius Caesar and enlarged by Augustus. It was burnt down thrice and finally restored in the year 377. It was lost to view in the 7th century, partly excavated in 1834, in 1850, and, recently, in 1888, it was entirely uncovered. It is the largest building in the Forum, being 300 feet in length by 140 feet in width.

We next looked upon the poor remnants of one of the most remarkable monuments of Rome, the famous pulpit of oratory, the Rostrum. From here, Marc Antonius held the famous funeral oration of Julius Caesar. The Arch of Septimus Serverus, built about 203 by the Emperor in his honor, was decorated on the top by a triumphal chariot, and, on the corner, by four statues all in bronze. The monument, which is one of the best preserved, is rich in beautiful bas reliefs.

Divus Julius Temple, which has been recently brought to light was built on the spot where the body of Julius Caesar was burnt on the pyre. In “Moderus Kunst” you will find a picture of this event, which, now that I have seen the spot, is of much interest to me.

The Temple of Antonius and Taustina, erected in 141 by Abt. Pius, is decorated with excellent bas reliefs. In the middle ages, it was converted into a church, and the floor was raised some 35 feet higher.

We next looked into some old Sepulchers, which have been excavated and in which were found vessels indicating their age to be 3000 years. Some temporary Prison Cells attracted our attention by the explanation from the guide that the prisoners were not kept in them for any length of time for they were either set free shortly, or put to death.

Three columns are all that is left of the magnificent Temple Castor and Pollus, which was built in 469 B.C. after the victory of the rising Republic over the partisans of the Tawquine. The pillars are about 50 feet high. The Temple of Romulus was the first of the pagan temples, which was converted into a church (in 503).

Roma, Roman forum with the temple of Castor and Pollux and the Basilica Giulia.

The Basilica Constantine, which was built in 511, had eight gigantic columns of which the only remaining one was moved to the Piazza S. M. Maggiors. The three remaining arches give one an idea of the grandeur of the temple, and it is said that they served as a model in the erection of the Pantheon.

Finally, we reached the most interesting ruins of them all, the Arch of Titus, built after the conquest of Jerusalem in the year A.D. 70. In the bas relief on the right, the more interesting portion of the triumphal procession is shown, that is, the gold table vessels and the seven-armed Candelabre.

Rome, the Arch of Titus.

In the one on the left, we see Titus in a triumphal car accompanied by lictors soldiers and citizens. Passing along under this arch, we thought of the many noble Romans who have passed to and fro beneath this arch before us, and, as we descend, we see before us the immense Colosseo, the most stupendous structure of the time of the Romans, built by Flavius Vespasian in 72–80, after the Jewish war.

Built for grand gladiatorial spectacles, it also served as the arena of the Christian Martyres. It was dedicated by Titus and inaugurated with wrestlings and games, which lasted one hundred days and in which 5000 wild beasts were slain. It consists of four stories each of different architecture, Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian. The circumference of this immense building is more than 1500 feet and the height more than 150. There was room for 50,000 spectators, who entered by 160 openings.

Rome, the Colosseum (or Coliseum).

We took a fleeting glance at the Arch of Constantine, built in the memory of his victory over Maxeutiust Licinius. It consists of three arches and is decorated with eight statues of barbarian prisoners. There now, that will give you a little ancient history to digest.

Rome, Arch of Constantine.

We were pretty well tired and hungry by this time and took a cab for the nearest restaurant. After a good lunch, we went to the Pantheon, which, unfortunately, was closed, so we took a car to look up a lady from America, who is staying with her sister. We went into a grand mansion and were ushered into the parlor, which gave us a fine idea of the luxury in which a modern Roman-American lives.

The furniture was rich and antique, and there were so many valuable and antique bricabracs that I could not possibly mention them. From here, we walked to the Villa Borghese, a grand and beautiful park, and then to the Pincio (the royal gardens of Nero). It contains rare plants and a collection of illustrations of Italians. Here a band was playing, and hundreds of carriages and many Pedestrians crowded the avenue. From a terrace, we had a fine view of Rome. We met Mr. Haueisen from Indianapolis and his daughter, and together we enjoyed the scene and the music as well as the pleasant chat. Home in a cab to be in time for supper and to bed in a hurry, as we were very tired.

Rome, April 21st, 1909

Jardin du Grand Hotel de Russie. (Editor’s note: postcard possibly sent by Grace or Miss Moran. I wonder if Hermann could read her writing.)

We arose at 7 o’clock, and, after breakfast, we took the car and went to the Hotel de Russie, where we met Grace and Miss Moran. Together we went to the Vatican and got tickets for the Mosaic Works, where we saw some of the artists at work, also many precious old mosaics, and they had many new ones, copies of paintings of old masters, which are for sale at prices ranging from $250.00 up into the thousands.

We then took in the Sistine Chapel. The Salia Regia, in the rear of it, is a hall of reception for royal ambassadors to the Court of the Pontiff and contains frescoes representing events in the history of the Popes. It is impossible to describe the many beautiful pictures and sculptures, ancient and modern, which are to be seen in this treasure house of Art.

I will just mention the Apollo de Belvedere, the most celebrated statue in the world, discovered among the ruins of ancient Autium towards the end of the 15th century and restored by the school of Michael Angelo. Also the group of the Laocoon, which Mich. Angelo pronounced a miracle of art, some fine work of Canova, and a statue of Mercury, the head of which, both in design and expression of the face, has never yet been surpassed.

The Halls of Raphael, with their grand fresco paintings, the Vatican Museum, consisting of the Geographical Gallery, the Galleria dei Candelabri, and the wonderful tapestry copies of Raphael pictures give you fresh surprise every moment.

It is impossible to “Take in” so much in so short a time, and as our stomachs began to grumble, we departed with reluctance and, wending our way around St. Peter’s, and crossing the grand piazza with its wonderful and colossal colonnade, which consists of 284 columns crowned by 86 statues.

Square and colonnade of San Pietro, Rome.

We looked up a pretty little German Herberge and sat down to a good German lunch.

After the inner man had been satisfied, we decided that it would be a pity to leave without having a glimpse of the interior of St. Peter, and so we retraced our steps, passing the magnificent Egyptian Obelisque, which was brought to the Piazza from the adjoining circus of Nero.

Piazza del Popolo (the People’s Square). An Egyptian obelisk of Sety I from Heliopolis stands in the center of the Piazza.

It is estimated that it cost $43,000.00 to remove the obelisk and set it up again. It is believed that where now the wonderful St. Peter stands, a small oratory was erected to honor the tomb of the great apostle, who was buried here and that Constantine in the year 326 erected a Basilica. To this, many Popes made additions, until, in 1700, the expenses had reached the sum of fifty million dollars.

But this seems but a small sum when you enter the church and look upon the treasures of Art contained therein. I will not attempt to describe any part of it, as words fail me to do so. There are beautiful altars with grand pictures above or opposite to them, monuments, mausoleums, and sarcophagi of Popes made by celebrated sculptors.

We also saw the bronze statue of St. Peter, the right foot of which is worn smooth with the kisses the devotees have given it as a sign of veneration.

Above the high altar (under the copula) where the Pope alone has the right to celebrate Mass, is an imposing canopy in bronze, highly gilted, 63 feet high; the bronze was taken from the Pantheon.

Under this altar is the tomb of St. Peter. The railing and balustrade is surrounded by 87 ever-burning bronze lamps. In the Baptistry Chapel is a Font of Porphyry, twelve feet long and six feet wide, which formerly was the lid of the sarcophagus of Otto II, (died in 974).

But with this, I must close. I cannot possibly describe the grandeur of this church. We are glad to get home dead tired, and, after writing this, I went to bed at 11 o’clock.


I forgot to mention the visit of the Pia coteca, where I saw the “Transfiguration” by Raphael.

Editor’s note: “Herbege” is a hostel. 

Rome, April 20th, 1909

Well, we said good-bye to our nice hotel and settled without any trouble. When we arrived at the station, we saw Miss Emma Kessler get into a car, and shortly after we got settled.

We passed through very fertile country and saw snow-capped mountains in the distance. The train moved along a good deal faster than the one we came in with to Naples. It was divided in compartments, with an aisle running along one side, and had dining car and sleeper. We traveled second class, which was very nice, although the seats are somewhat crowded and rather narrow.

At Cassino, we bought two little baskets with lunch in them, consisting of a flask of wine, bread, meat, egg, cake, and an orange, all wrapped nicely in paper and tasting very good, total cost 40¢.

Roman Forum with the Temple of Castor and Pollux at the Basilica Giulia

We arrived on time, 14:35 o’clock, which means 2:45, and hired a facchino, who carried our luggage to the pension, we trotting along. We found the place to be four flights of stairs, 103 steps, which is a good exercise after a big meal, but hard work after having been sight seeing all day.

We walked out at once in order to see something before night, and the first thing we struck was the Barracks of the Pretorians, which is occupied by cavalry. It is very old, dating from Sejanus. From here we went to the Porta Pia new gate, erected in 1560.

We now took the car leading out on the via Nomentana, on which there are situated some fine villas of Patricians. At random, we got off at a church, which proved to be a great interest. It was the Santa Angese, which was in existence at the time of Honorius, 1500 years go, just think of it. It was well worth seeing, as it still retains the features of a primitive Christian Basilica.

The Baptistry of St. Constantia, which is a round temple, has some very old mosaics, representing the vintage, and in it were buried two daughters of Constantine. It was changed into a church in the year of 1265.

You have to descend quite a number of steps to reach the church of S. Agnese, which is divided into three naves by sixteen ancient columns of various marbles and has a fine ceiling of carved wood and a fine head of Christ in marble, said to have been made by Michael Angelo, and a fine mosaic, made in 625, representing S. Agnese who is buried under the altar.

Returning to the Porta Pia, we saw the place where the breach was made into the old wall by the Italian soldiers when they took Rome by force and annexed it with Italy on the 20th Sept. 1870. They entered through the Porta Pia and ended the temporal power of the Pope. Opposite is a column of Victory, erected 25 years later, to commemorate this event.

We went to bed at 10 o’clock. We are all well taken care of in this pension, and we get some genuine Italian dishes now and then.

Naples, April 19th Monday

We awoke at 8 o’clock, and, after breakfast, we hired one of those cute little cabs @ 25¢ an hour for three of us and rode down town to finish our shopping, bought a ticket to Rome at Cooks and a pretty bouquet of lilacs for mama.

I also invested in a box of Italian cigars @ 3¢ a piece, and they are worse than the “Owl” or “Spana Cuba,” but the better ones are strong enough to knock down an ox.

I had to have my speks [sic] repaired, and we then went to the Musei Nationale with the beautiful statues excavated in Pompei and Herculeaneum, also fine Mosaics from the same place, and fresco paintings found in the houses; lamps, vessels, pitchers, bread, surgical instruments almost like the ones they are using now, a model showing Pompei as far as excavated, and what is still covered—Bronzes, Treasure Chests etc. The statues are grand. I also visited a room which is filled with pictures, bronzes and statues taken from houses of worship.

Emily-coralWe spent only an hour here as we had to get home in time for lunch, which forms an important part in our daily life. Emily bought a nice coral necklace for herself as a memento of Naples.

After lunch, the ladies took a nap, and I wrote some more postals. At 5 o’clock, we decided to take a walk and we certainly were surprised when we found that we had stumbled into one of the finest streets in Naples, where the rich people are building new houses with the most exquisite carving of grapes, vines, fruits, etc., and tiling, forming a band around the entire front, are set in a sort of tablet. [sic]

And the gardens are built up in terraces with pretty statuary and filled with sweet smelling flowers, palms, etc. The road winds from our hotel up and runs along the high hill and gradually slopes down to form an oblong. It is called the Corso Vittori Emmannele.

Napoli – Panorama and Gulf seen from the Belvedere of San Martino.

At one point, it lead us right above the roof of our hotel, and a little further on, where it forms a rotunda, we had the finest view of Naples which we have had so far. It is the one shown on the postal cards, with Vesuvius in the background. From here, I would like to see the old fellow perform, but he is perfectly quiet resting from his efforts of 1906, they say.

We called at the P.O. this afternoon and received your nice letter of April 5th. The newspapers did not reach us as they are always a few days later than a letter, even in the U.S. mail.

I am glad to hear that the Waynesboro matter is settled at last, and we must now try to dispose of the lily panels. Better fix them up for the Show Room.

Yes, we had a good tail end of the storm on the Mediterranean. Congratulations, I suppose, are in order to your election as Secy. & Treas. of the Fishing Club, and I trust that the funds will not give you as much worry as those of the Orphan home. You say nothing, so I suppose Tutsy did not take a prize.

But, now I must close. We will have to pack our suit cases and, as we have all our things out and our washing done, too, it will be quite a job. By the way, they do the washing fine and very neat and reasonable. Cheaper than in St. Louis.

We all send much love. I am getting used to the ways of the Italians, which are certainly queer in many respects. The chamber maid has just brought fresh water and said “Buono sera,” and so say we.


Naples, April 18th Sunday

Grand Eden Hotel, sitting room.

We awoke at 8 o’clock and took our time to dress. After breakfast (which consists of very hard crusted buns, honey, or preserves and a cup of coffee or chocolate), we sat out in the garden, and, at 10:30 o’clock, I went on a tour of investigation by my “Lonely self.”

I took the car to the Plaza, which has the statue of Nicola Amore, the man with the open hand who must have taught the Italians the habit of asking for tips.

I then went to the Cathedral Duomo, which has innumerable altars, but they look dirty and dingy. It is a large structure. There are no seats, but chairs are provided by ushers as the people come in.

Ruggero Bonchi (or Bonghi), 1826–1895, was a scholar, writer, and politician born in Naples.

From here, I walked back towards the hotel, passed another statue erected in honor of Ruggero Bonchi (whosoever he may have been). He has the outstretched arm with the open hand, so there must have been more than one of these tip, tip, tip teachers.

On the Corso Umberto, I passed the University, a large building occupying almost a block, also the Chamber of Commerce. The streets were filled with people, and fakirs of all kinds plied their avocation. Wheels of fortune, magicians, sellers of lemonade, nuts, fruits, etc.

The Old Barracks, in front of which lounged soldiers, some of whom wear round hats with a big bunch of Rooster feathers on top, and the City Hall are on a Palazzo, on which is also the statue of Victor Emanuel II.

I next went into the Basilica of Francesca de Paulo on the Plazza del Plebicito, which is an immense building with a dome flanked on each side by colonnades with columns of 6 feet diameter. There was a service in front of one of the altars of which there are several. The side of the walls had heroic-sized statues of St. Augustine and other saints.

I passed the church of S. Lucia when they were taking in a baby to be baptized, I suppose, but I had no time to stay, so I went by without entering.

Here I took the car passing the Hassler Hotel, where you stopped last year. Our hotel is up the hill, passing Cooks. The people look well in their Sunday dresses; the children of the richer class being dressed especially fine and very pretty and sometimes very odd.

After lunch, we hired on of these cute little cabriolets with room for three and drove to Posilipo and the Cape of Psilipo from where we had a fine view of the Isle of Procida, with the prison which is properly named “Castello Misero”

On the way we passed a Greek Temple which must be very old. We passed along the Villa Nationale (Public Park) which has the Aquarium in it.

Driving along the Via Caracciolo, we had a fine view of Naples, with the Castello Martino on the hill and Castello Dell’Oro built out into the Mare Tirreno (Mediterranean Sea).

We passed many carriages and pedestrians, as this seems to be a favorite drive, and the view from the Rotunda at the end of the drive is grand. There are many villas of rich Neapolitans on the road with beautiful gardens.

We returned in time for dinner at 7:30, and, after that, Emily and I sat up and wrote twenty-one postal cards and retired at 11 o’clock.

Editor’s note: Photo of Bonchi courtesy of HombreDHojalata and Wikimedia. 

Naples, April 17th Saturday

Grand Eden Hotel, Naples, 1909

I am getting lazy, and it is only by a special effort that I can bring myself to write. Then again, so many things crowd themselves into a day that one forgets where he left off.

We had quite a time getting our luggage and ourselves into the train at Pompei as there was a quite a crowd there. But we managed to get there. After an hour’s ride, we reached Naples and were met by the porter of the Grand Eden Hotel. He engaged a carriage for us, which took all five and the nine pieces of baggage to the hotel for three Lire and a tip, just think of it, only 75¢. That beats Union Station carriages, anyhow.

We are all sunburnt and have red noses. As Miss W. and Grace decided to leave for Rome in the morning, we rushed to Cooks to make arrangements. We retired early, and this morning they left us at 10 o’clock.

We then went down town to do some shopping, bought gloves and cameos, and I went to the P.O., where I found no letter, but the Apologete and the Star. To-morrow I will read them, and that will be the first newspaper I have looked at since we left the States.

While I am writing this in the Salon of the Hotel, which is fixed up in great style, there are some musicians out in the garden singing and playing. The street car conductors here have large pouches, like our letter carriers, in which they carry their numerous tickets and the money.

Napoli – Panorama and Gulf seen from the Belvedere of San Martino.

We took another ride down town after lunch and saw many of the Public Buildings, the Palace, also the Gallery Humberto, which has beautiful shops under glass-covered arches. We also saw the Public writers, who write letters for those who cannot write themselves.

I wrote to-day to a lady in Rome whom Amalie Achard recommended to me to stop with, and we will try a pension for a change, as we intend to stop a week in Rome. We also made the acquaintance of the boys who sell postal cards, and we bought 48 for 20¢ and will try to write to as many friends as possible to-morrow. They sell the raisins here wrapped up in dried grape leaves, and they look just like a large plug of tobacco.

We have a good table in this hotel, but I am getting tired of drinking wine at the table, and we will go back to Mineral water. Their vegetables are fine; crisp lettuce is a daily dish at luncheon, and we certainly enjoy it. We are all learning to walk in the street, and they are certainly preferable to the narrow sidewalks, on which a person can hardly pass another. They sprinkle their streets by attaching a short hose (which they carry along on little wheels) to the plug, so we cannot get on the water wagon in this city.

In the evening, a party of 25 h’Engl. [sic] men with a guide arrived, also some from the states, and it is somewhat livelier, but this is a nice quiet hotel. To bed at 10 o’clock.

Pompei, April 16th Friday


Pompei • Casa degli Amorini d’Ora.

We arose at 6 o’clock and took a carriage for Cava des Terreni. It was a beautiful drive through several pretty villages. Maiori, one of them, had as wide a street as we have seen in Italy; here we saw a stove factory. A very old monk on a balcony looking after us made quite a picture.

In Minora, we saw the first Macaroni factory with the little stuff spread on tarpaulins on the ground, and the spaghetti hanging on lines to dry. We had a fine view of Ravello and passed catacombs built into the rock.

At Vietri, we saw a large factory of blue cloth with any amount of the cloth hanging out to dry. La Cava is very interesting, with its long street flanked on each side by arcades.

At the station, we were received by a Cooks man, who bought our tickets and saw to it that we had two “Facchino,” who managed to get us into a second class compartment although we had tickets for first.

In the train, I took out my Italian, Self Taught book and struck up a conversation with an Italian gentleman, and we had quite a talk, mostly gestures, though. Arrived at Pompei, I stuck my head out of the window and called “Facchino,” and “Presto,” here he was!

At the Hotel Suisse, we washed up and had our first macaroni, also home-made cheese. And now, the three girls have gone to view the ruins, while Mama and I sit in the restaurant and await their return.

I wish to mail this from Pompei, so I close here. We leave for Naples at 3:40 and stay over Sunday. We are well and enjoying the beautiful weather and the really sunny sky of Italy. Love to all. I expect mail at Naples when I call at P.O. and Cooks.

Yours,  Dad

Pompei. Strada delia Regina.

Editor’s note: A “facchino” is a porter. 

Amalfi, April 15th, 1909

Amalfi, April 15th, 1909

We sat around last night in the garden until about 9:30 and then packed our grips and retired at 10 o’clock. I awoke at 6 and had a fine view of the fishermen from my window.

There was a regular flotilla of boats and the nets were being pulled in from the shore, big and little folks pulling away at them. I understand that often they do not catch any and sometimes only one or two fish.

We had ordered two carriages for 9:30 in the morning to ride from Sorrento to Amalfi, and we certainly enjoyed this drive, wondering all the time how you (Charlie) could possibly have stood this walk of twenty-four miles.

We passed some of the grandest and most picturesque spots which it has ever been my privilege to see on this beautiful earth.

On the other side of Sorrento, we saw a villa nicely situated near the road and overlooking a beautiful valley, where an Italian fruit dealer who made his money in Brooklyn, N.Y. is living in peace enjoying the “Fruits of his labor.”

We had a constant view of the Mediterranean Sea and the Bay of Salerno with three huge rocks which looked as if they had been thrown there by some giant force. Along the entire road runs a fence built up of rock and coated over with cement and, in some places, the fence is made by huge century cacti.

About noon we reached Positano, where we stopped at a hotel to drink a Munchener and eat some bread and cheese. Here we met some fellow travelers from the Barbarossa, Mr. Haueisen and family from Indianapolis.

Near this place is a very pretty little water fall. A very interesting place is Parinade Perano; from our carriage we could look away down some 250 feet where this old village is built up at the edge of the sea. There are many ruins of old houses.

About three o’clock we reached Amalfi, an old town which played quite an important part in navigation in the 10th century. At the foot of a rock, we were bowed in by concierge of the hotel and now began a climb of 192 steps to the hotel entrance, where we were met by a young lady who showed us our rooms, which look upon the beautiful sea.

We cleaned up and were glad to get the chance to do so. (Charlie, how did you ever manage to climb those steps after an all-day walk?) We then took a walk in the garden, which is built upon the rock in terraces and around which runs a pergola(?), overgrown with vine.

A walk through the monastery (hotel) proved very interesting. It is more than 700 years old. The chapel has some old paintings of saints and, in the choir above, are some old chairs and Lecturnes. The cloister in Moorish architecture is very interesting, so are the cells, which are now converted into bedrooms. The entire building is very interesting and looks as if it had been pasted onto the rock.

We retired early being tired from the hard work of doing nothing. By the way, the eating was very good.

Sorrento, April 14, 1909

Screen Shot 2019-04-09 at 2.10.49 PMWhere did I stop anyhow? There is so much crowding itself into a day that, unless you take notes, you can hardly remember it all.

Well, we all were pretty well disgusted with our accommodations at the Pagano Hotel. Mama and Emily had to climb innumerable steps, inside and outside of the house in order to get to their bed rom and, although quite romantic, it did not agree with us. However, we slept well, and it looked good to open the shutters upon a garden filled with orange and lemon trees.

We took a carriage for Ana Capri, and it is impossible to describe the grandeur and beauty of the scenery. The road winds up on the mountain, and every turn brings new surprises. There are some very pretty villas all the way up and on the outskirt where we all decided it would have been well to stop.

We returned part of the way to Capri and then turned down to Marina Piccola (Little Seaport) which is a little jewel. Here is a beautiful villa which just took our breath away, it is so pretty. We met many fellow tramps from the Barbarossa upon our return to Capri.

After lunch, we sat around in the hotel garden, which is the prettiest part of it. I had engaged our driver to take us to the boat and, at 3:30, we started after going through the usual ordeal of settling our bill and tip, tip, tipping. Some day I will write a “Sonate Italiano” on this subject.

At the boat we had a great time with our baggage. We took the steamer for Sorrento, where we arrived about 4:45. Another job of getting us all safely placed in the small boat, which is necessary to take you to and from the steamer.

The man who handed the baggage over the rail, into the boat asked for a tip, and I took a handful of coppers and gave them to him. He called me back and handed them back to me, and I took them with a bow and a “Gratia signor.” So I got a tip for once anyhow.

Sorrento_3While I am writing this, in the beautiful garden of this hotel, I am smoking an Italian cigarette, made by the government, ten for thirty (30) centesimi (6¢) just for the novelty of the thing.

Arrived at the foot of the hill, we were placed in a lift (elevator) and taken up some 30 meters, whatever that is, and received by the proprietor, concierge (gentlemen porter) etc., etc. with profound bows. We selected our rooms and washed up for “Table d’Hote.”

Sorrento_2After dinner, we were entertained in the concert hall by a band of Italians with song, mandolin and guitars music, and the celebrated “Tarantella” dance. The Italians were dressed in their national costume, knee breeches, jackets and long red caps and the girls in fancy dresses of gorgeous colors. The dance is very picturesque.

We all retired and were glad to get our heads on the pillows. My room is away up a sheer discend of 150 feet at least and overlooks the Mediterranean Sea. The breaking of the waves on the shore sang me to sleep and, upon awakening in the morning, I opened the door to the balcony and watched the fishermen pull in their nets.

After breakfast, we went into the garden, a perfect paradise. The proprietor handed each of the ladies a pretty bouquet of flowers to wear. The wisteria grow in abundance. The entire garden front (south side) of the hotel is covered with them from the balcony down to the ground and the garden itself is one mass of flowers.

The daisies are the size of a double aster, pansies almost as large as the palm of a child’s hand, Japonica, oranges, kidglove oranges, and palms of all kinds as large as you see them in palm houses. Schatzie and I are now sitting in an arbor and she would like to stay for weeks, but . . . I guess all of this will have to be paid for, and there is “More to come.”

We enjoyed a very nice lunch and later in the afternoon we took a stroll through the city. There are some very interesting buildings here, also a Statue of Tasso, the Italian Poet, born in 1544 in this city. The stores are filled with waves of inlaid wood of which there are many factories large and small. We also went in to the Public Garden which affords a fine view of the sea. The street are very narrow, the people very primitive in their habits.

We returned to the hotel garden to enjoy the beautiful view and to bask in the sunshine. We hope that it will continue to shine on us.

Screen Shot 2019-04-09 at 2.37.39 PM

Editor’s note: Despite Jennie’s increasingly poor vision, she managed to write a personal note to Miss Hunt. 

Capri, April 12th, 1909

Capri_1I ought not to write as I am in such a wretched humor. We had our first experience of hotel sharking and tipping, which came near spoiling my appetite for more traveling. We carry six suit cases and three satchels between us and it is a constant pay, pay, pay.

To begin with, they made our bill for two days, while we stayed only 1 3/4. He then wanted to charge me for changing my travelers check. When I came to the concierge, he tried to do me out of $2.50, and the tipping took my breath away.

Arrived at the landing, we had to pay for carrying our luggage to the boat, we had to pay to carry it to the steamer, and when we got off the steamer, we had to pay again. Just tip, tip, all the time.

The three girls went into the Blue Grotto, but Mama and I remained on board. The view of the bay is beautiful, and we would have enjoyed it immensely if it had not been for the disagreeable features preceding the “Coming to anchor.”

It was one o’clock before we landed at Capri. The hotel runner took us in, and two and three women bounced upon our luggage. I told the runner that I would pay one Lire and no more and gained my first victory this day.

Arrived at the hotel, we found that our rooms had been taken, and we had to take rooms on the third, fourth and fifth story with no “Lift” either. You know how the place is built, and I am afraid that we will be lost some evening on our way to our respective rooms.

Capri_2After lunch, we took a walk past some beautiful villas and saw some grand scenery. The place is full of strangers, mostly Germans, I judge, the hotel looks cold and uninviting to us after our fine quarters in Naples, and I am afraid that we will not stay long. We all have “Cold feet,” but this may change after to-morrow.

Your dear letter of the 27th received here alright and glad to have such good news. I hope that you have landed Cairo, although I understand that they have no money. Glad to hear of sale to Carondelet Lutherans. Haven’t thought of business since I left home, and, if we move at this rate, it will keep me busy to figure out tips!

Yours of the 28th to hand just now, and it put everybody in good humor. We are now sitting in the little sitting room and swapping experiences, which reminded Grace of our dinner at Naples on Sunday. We had music, (Italiano of course) and when we left a man stood at the stair case with a plate, he bowed and Grace bowed, thinking he was offering tooth picks, which she did not want. I passed and saw money on the plate, received a profound bow, put my hand into my pocket (a habit which you acquire here) and deposited 20¢ [centesimi] (4¢) with a bow. Did not dare to look back to see another bow.

At lunch to-day, Grace asked for Crackers and waiter promptly brought a nut cracker. Well it’s time to close, the first bell has sounded.

Had mail from Tante Lenchen welcoming us.

All’s well that ends well. Mama sends love. Again your,



Naples, April 11th, 1909

Napoli_4Either the pens or the ink are abominable, so I will have to take refuge to my pencil. I collected all our baggage, nine pieces on the steamer, and engaged two of the steamer stewarts [sic] to help me down with them.

I watched my chance and was one of the first to get off and, as we descended the gang plank, I saw a man wave a letter in his hand and call out again and again! “Mr. Jacoby, I have a letter for you!” I called to him, and he met me at the foot of the gangway when I saw that he had a band around his cap with the name of the hotel on it.

In the letter, the proprietor informed me that my letter had been received and my terms accepted, which is 12 lire or $2.40 per day. He helped us with the custom house officer, so that we had to open but one suit case, and took us to the bus.

At the hotel, we were received with bows and scrapes and had our first experience of European Hotel civilities. I haven’t found out yet who is the “Ober” and who the proprietor, but I know the concierge who speaks German and English. We walked right to Table d’hote and ordered a bottle (4¢) same price as Munchener, which seemed “High” to me.

After dinner we sat around and watched the ladies smoking cigarettes. We retired early, as we have to rise early in order to be able to attend high mass, as the churches will be crowded an hour before commencement.

We have two large rooms, fitted up in great style. Large windows reaching to the floor, lead out into a small balcony on which Wisteria grow. They are in full bloom and look very graceful. We are on the first floor, and we have a fine view of the garden, which is one mass of flowers and tropical plants. The building reminds me of the Moorish Buildings on the midway.

Grace and her aunt have another very pretty room, which has a large balcony in front. The Winter Garden is one large circle room with glass walls. The dining room is nicely arranged, and the hotel lies pretty well up on the hill and not right in the city. We all slept well after climbing into our beds and awoke at 8 o’clock on Easter Morning.

Editor’s note: “Ober” is short for “oberkellner,” meaning “head waiter.” 

April 11th Sunday (continued)

Grace and her aunt were up and ready to go long before us, and so they left us to go to the Cathedral.

We took a long walk down to the park, passing some monuments and seeing much of Italian life, such as the goats being milked right on the street, direct into the bottles, the police and soldiers in their gay uniforms, the poorer class in their bright dresses, and flowers everywhere. We had a nice walk in the park and a good view of the Bay of Naples. The sun was shining brightly and the air so balmy.

We walked home and had our worship in our room. At one o’clock, we had a lunch, and we certainly enjoyed it as we had nothing but bread and honey and a cup of chocolate for breakfast.

After lunch we took the funicular (right around the corner from our hotel), which is an inclined R.R. up the hill, where we walked around and took the street car back to town, passing many of the principal buildings, the royal palace, Garibaldi’s Statue, the Arsenal and the Wharfes. [sic]

We were thoroughly tired out when we returned home and mama lay down for a nap. We have not had a chance to go to Cooks or the P.O., so we have not received any mail as yet. Tomorrow at nine o’clock, we leave for Capri.

April 10th Saturday

We awoke early with the sun shining into the porthole and the Mediterranean as smooth as glass. By breakfast time, we knew that we would be in Naples at 5 o’clock, and all rejoiced. The band gave us a farewell concert, and we all went down to pack up.

Lunch at 1 o’clock was attended by everybody, being the last meal on the deck, and after that we started paying our compliments to the stewarts [sic]. We are now passing the isles of Ischia on “Port” and Capri on the “Starboard” (How is that?), an hour and a half more, and the fun will commence.

Arrived at five o’clock, but it took us up to seven o’clock before we could get off the boat. We were very fortunate in being met at the boat by the runner who took charge of us and saw us through the custom house. Had to open but one satchel. All well and in high spirits.


April 9th Friday

We awoke with the sun shining through our porthole, but the waves rolling high, and the ship laboring heavily. It is now almost a certainty that we cannot reach Naples before Saturday evening late, possibly too late to land us before Sunday morning.

Very rough all day, and everybody gloomy and disappointed except “The quintette,” which feels that they have much to be grateful for.

As it is “Good Friday,” we did not have much music, consequently the dinner was a very solemn and tedious affair. To bed at an early hour.



April 8th Thursday

A beautiful day, due at Algiers at 11 o’clock where I expect to mail this, so no more at present.


This has certainly been a day of events. At 11 o’clock, we arrived at Algiers, and it is almost impossible to describe the scene as it presented itself to us. The city itself is built on a hill, which slopes upward from the Mediterranean Sea. The houses are built in the Moorish Spanish style and look like so many toy houses.

The pilot came on board and guided the ship close to the wharfes [sic] where we dropped anchor and swung around. A government launch (French) brought an officer on board and took as many passengers as she could load on shore, the others were taken in small boats and launches.

The carsmen looked very picturesque with their white pantaloons, purple jackets, and red fez, quite a number of vendors came aboard to sell postal cards, spyglasses and Moorish trinkets.

From the upper deck we had a good view of the city, we could see parks with palm trees, a bronze equestrian statue, the City Hall, several mosques and a “Sure enough” street car.

The life on the water was full of variety. The White Star liner, “Canopic” had left Gibraltar about the same time as our boat, but being a faster boat, she had arrived four hours before us and was now calling in her passengers. Another large steamer came and and dropped her anchor, all of which gave us as much to see as we could possibly see in so short a time.

At 12 o’clock we started for Naples with the wind dead against us and the “Canopic” which had started later, gradually gaining on us and soon lost to our sight.

It was rumored that we would have the Captain’s dinner to-day and a peep into the dining room showed that it was being decorated with a great number of small flags. So we decided to “Dress” for the occasion and we all came into the “Dining Saloon” in full rig. The waiters were dressed up in style, and take it all around, it was quite a festive looking crowd.

The tables were decorated, too, and on each one was an elaborate table piece built up of macaroons and decorated with small flags and “costume favors.” When it came to the dessert, the lights were put out and the waiters marched in with Japanese lanterns and bearing the ice cream on a platter with an electric light inside of each. It was a very pretty sight.

Menu from the Captain’s Dinner.

Concert program for Captain’s Dinner







Emily collected autographs from her table mates at the Captain’s Dinner.
[Editor’s note: Zahlmeister means paymaster.]

We all retired early to pack away our finery and we slept well.


April 7th Wednesday

More than thirty new passengers came on board at Gibraltar, and they had to open the other Dining Room, many new faces. It stormed and rained all day, and we were glad to be able to sit outside with tarpaulins all around, giving us a “Trostlose Aussicht.”

The paymaster, who is supposed to preside at our dinner table has not made his appearance up to date, and so we prepared a resolution requesting him to be sure and put in his appearance on “Kapitan’s Dinner.”

Mr. J.F. Wegmann an architect (who by the way drew the plans for the St. Louis World’s Fair Jerusalem) engrossed it, we tied it with a nice red ribbon, and the three ladies were appointed a committee to present it to him.

He seemed to be very much embarrassed and really put in his appearance at the dinner table this evening. It was so stormy all day that we made but 203 miles in 19 hours, and we may not reach Algiers until late to-morrow. We walked around the deck in the evening for about 3/4 of an hour, as we had very little exercise during the day, and retired at 10 o’clock.

I made the acquaintance of Mr. Wm. H. Haueisen of Indianapolis, Ind. who know Otto Wagner well.

Ed. note: “Trostlose Aussicht” roughly translates to “bleak prospect” and to “engross” means to “make a final copy of.”

April 6th Tuesday

The concert proved a great success, the singers had dressed up in great style and so had the passengers. It was given in the Captain’s dining saloon and lasted until 11 o’clock.

After the concert, we went to Tony Faust’s, I mean the smoking room, and enjoyed our Munchener. This morning we arose early and found a rough sea and strong wind. We passed many steamers, and sailing vessels.

We have just passed the coast of Trafalger, made famous by Admiral Nelson’s battle and we are now getting ready to land when we arrive in Gibraltar, which may be in an hour. Mama and I sit comfortably in our chairs, wrapped up and listen to the band. And so I must say good bye and God bless and keep you.

At 10 o’clock, we arrived at Gibraltar, a small boat, the “Grille” came to the steamer, and Emily, with Miss Moran and Grace, boarded her to go to the city. They were escorted by Prof. Goulding of Ann Arbor, Mich., who has been very attentive to the two young ladies and who promised to watch over them and bring them back safely.

Owing to the very rough weather and the drizzling rain, it was rather a task to go, and so Mama and I concluded to stay. We bought a small basket of strawberries and this, with the exception of a bunch of daisies, is all we bought. Owing to the rain, I guess there was very little ware exhibited, and we saw no chance to buy the table cloth for Tante Rickchen.

A tug boat brought up a barge and into this the freight was loaded from our steamer. There were two little boats with fruit in baskets which sold mostly to the steerage passengers as we get all the fruit which we can eat.

The harbor is full of sub-marine mines they tell me, and old English war vessels are lying in different parts loaded with ammunition, I suppose, while on the long breakwater are stored tons of coal.

Punctually at four o’clock, our people returned and brought us, besides the daisies, a large bouquet of blue flags. We had a fine view of the old rock as we steamed past it. The heavy cloud, which had been hanging over it and covering all but the town from sight, had lifted, and we had a good view of it. The seagulls, which had welcomed us and surrounded us during our stay, now followed us to bid farewell.

The last view of the rock was a grand one, 1400 feet high it stands and, although the waves which constantly dash against it, hollow out its base, it is such a tiny hollow that a million years could pass without showing the effect of the dashing waves which look so immense to us.

I have mentioned the fact that we had Rear Admiral French E. Chadwick with us; he and his wife left us here. She had been with Schatzie upon our approach to Gibraltar and explained all about the town and the old rock, being an old traveler she knew all about it.

We left Gibraltar one day late with an adverse wind, which gradually increased to a storm, we did not make much headway. Having had a swell in the Atlantic, we now had a taste of the “Fore and aft rolling motion” which made us change our “Mode of walk,” sometimes precipitating us as if shot out of a cannon and then again halting us suddenly. The steamer would dash into a large wave, cutting it and throwing the spray high up sometimes as high as, and over, the “Commander’s bridge.”

Dinner at seven was a rather “Rocky” affair and we were glad to retire to the “Ladies Saloon” for the evening. The “Shaky ones” gradually disappeared from sight, and we all retired early. They say it stormed all night. Schatzie and I, however, knew nothing of it, for we slept soundly up to 7 o’clock, and so another day and night has passed and gone.

April 5th Monday

Gibralter-1Another beautiful day and everybody seems to be on deck. We are gradually getting to know each other, “The ice is thawing all around.”

Yesterday, we became acquainted with Dr. Alois Zechendorf and his wife, from Cincinnati, who live in Avondale right opposite from Fritz Lotze’s. Rear Admiral Ch-[sic] and wife are on board, and his wife had quite a chat with Schatzie.

The crowd is very democratic and up to now “Evening dress” has not been in evidence. But to-night we are going to have a genuine Italian concert by members of the “Met. Italian Opera Co.” (Chorus) who are on their way home, and I expect the girls will come out in full regalia.

After breakfast, we saw a sailing vessel with all sails set and a large steamer, but it did not cause one half the excitement that was created by the appearance of a spouting whale, who performed for our benefit.

We are now getting ready for Gibraltar, the landing bridge is being put in order, and things look as if we were getting home. Everybody smiles, and the ladies run around with their candy boxes “Wide open.” They realize that they cannot eat them all themselves and not wishing to pay duty on it, they give it away. We are going to make a landing at Algiers, and you may expect a line from there.

April 4th Sunday


A beautiful Sabbath morning. The sea in ripples, the sun shining and nothing but pure clear water and sky as far as the eye can see. The boat has hardly a swell, and, if it was not for the water, which you can see through the railing as we pass through it, we would not know that we are moving.

Schatzie and I arose early, band playing “Eine Feste Burg,” and after a light breakfast, we basked in the sunshine on deck and had a quiet one-half hour of reading and meditation. It was grand.

At 9:30, we passed an Italian steamer, the St. George, loaded with emigrants for the U.S.A., pure white steamer, (it looked pure white in the distance). Of course, everybody rushed for the glasses (not the Munchener, but the glasses.)

The morning passed quickly, on deck of the second cabin, an Italian priest had an altar set up with two palms on it (Palm Sunday to-day) and burning candles. He preached in Italian, so we could not understand him.

Mama and Emily had their reading in the cabin. It is needless to say that with such beautiful weather, we enjoyed the day and our meals. Just imagine a large expand of deep blue water slightly rippled, with the sunshine dancing on them and casting reflections like so many diamonds. It is grand.

April 3d Saturday

São Miguel Island, the largest island in the Azores.

This morning, the sun peeped in through the porthole, and we all arose at the first bugle call, which is 7 o’clock. Mama and I were the first on deck and rejoiced to see all protecting tarpaulins around the promenade deck removed, which gave us the first view of the forward deck where the steerage passengers live.

We enjoyed our breakfast and after that saw the first steamer, a “Spanish freighter.” Of course everybody brought out their marine glasses and as we are to pass the Azores to-day, we kept the glasses out.

These islands, nine in number, are situated about 700 miles from Portugal. They were discovered in 1433 and colonized by Portuguese and some Flemingers, the latter, however, became, in course of time extinct, and to-day the islands are inhabited by Portuguese. There are about one-fourth million inhabitants distributed on the nine islands of which St. Michael is the largest one. They raise oranges, lemons, pineapples, and other tropic fruits. The climate is mild, the temperature varying between 50 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

We passed them at about 10:30 and it was a beautiful panorama. The land looked good to us anyhow, but its beauty was enhanced by the green fields, white houses and the waves dashing against the rocks. Of course, “Everybody” was out and with reluctance we followed the call for lunch.

A little shower in the afternoon laid the dust, and we enjoyed the concert given on deck at night very much. We had a “Wireless” on board and the operator kindly explained it to us. I took his word for it. The one thing which worries me is what become of the one-half hour, which we lose every day. At 12 o’clock, we set and wind up our watches, and we are “Slow” one-half hour every day. Well, in case we return to the U.S., we will get them back again.

Photograph courtesy of  Ravi Sarma and Wikimedia Commons. 

April 2d Friday

Starboard, the good side of the boat, is still “On the bum,” and all flock on our side, so that up to now my selection has proven the best. It is foggy and damp this morning, but the sea is fairly smooth. A fellow can get used to almost anything and “We all” will miss the rolling motion of the boat when we get on land!

Mama and I sneaked off on Emily this morning and had our breakfast together while Emily was still sleeping. As the morning proceeded, the weather grew worse and the deck being so wet, people had to stick to their chairs. It is remarkable to see how everybody brightens up when there is an excitement of any kind. The “Just sitting” is no fun, and so the call for meals is quite a welcome change, even if a fellow is not hungry.

After lunch, I, for the first time, enjoyed my cigar while the ladies took a nap. The smoking room is provided with comfortable lounges, which are in little nooks and corners with upholstering all around the walls, and picture of German cities and castles on the walls. In the afternoon “We broke the ice” by playing and singing.

We all went to dinner and enjoyed it immensely. This stately affair takes on an entirely different aspect when a fellow feels like eating and criticizing his table fellows. At ten o’clock we went to bed.

April 1st Thursday

barbarossa-textI had my April fool fun with some, telling them that there was a “Boat in sight.” Weather beautiful and one half the journey (to Gibraltar anyhow) completed. Mama sleeps a good deal as the air is so soft, and the noise of the boat breaking its way through the water lulls one to sleep.

Mama says it’s like being in a Fairyland. All you need do is tell someone what you would like to eat, and they bring it. “Music surrounds you, and you need not work. I only hope that I will not grow any fatter,” she winds up with. So you see, even Fairyland has its drawback.

Dinner on board, 7 p.m., is a tedious affair with a good many courses and lasts about an hour and twenty minutes. Mama and I have our selection of the long list served on a table in the ladies entrance hall to the “Saloon,” and while the band plays in the saloon, we enjoy our dinner. From nine to ten o’clock, we enjoyed a concert given by the band in the dining room of the second cabin. The band is composed of the stewards of the second cabin and they play right well. They also give us a concert every morning on the Promenade deck. We retired at 11 o’clock.